Sunday, September 27, 2009

Mirembe!

Peace Fam,

I'm blessed with perhaps the best group of traveling companions I've ever had the pleasure of working with, and I'm loving our time in East Africa!

I'm still pressed for time and reliable internet connections, so updates and photos will be few and far between, but to follow our progress, in addition to clicking on the student blog in the post below, you can click on these websites to see what we've been up to and who we've been working with:

www.ndere.com -Excellent dance troupe in Kampala (9/13)
www.raftafrica.com -Grade 5 white water rafting on the Nile (9/14)
www.softpowereducation.com -School painting, Bubugo (9/15 - 21)
www.mirembekawomera.com -Fair trade co-op (9/22 - 27)
www.caroladamsministry.com -Y.E.S., Ft Portal (9/28 - 10/5)
www.edirisa.org (10/14 - 10/15)
www.kigalimemorialcentre.org (10/17)
www.maasaiwanderings.com (10/24 - 11/4)
www.uaacc.habari.co.tz (11/5 -11/7)

Yep, I'm happy, healthy and LOVING life, and hoping you are too!

Peace&Blessings,
Zik

Monday, September 14, 2009

Back in East Africa!

Yep, I'm back in East Africa leading another trip for Carpe Diem and loving it! I've been blessed with an awesome co-leader and a great group of young travelers.

Chances are I won't get to update my personal blog much on this 3-month trip, but you can follow our progress at:

http://carpediemeducation-africa.blogspot.com.

We just returned from an amazing performance by the N'dere dance troupe here in Kampala, Uganda.



And tomorrow we'll be whitewater rafting the Nile from Jinja!

In fact, the rafting company is picking us up in 6 and a half hours, so I'm signing off now in order to wake up fresh.

Still happy, healthy and loving life, and hoping you are too!

Peace&Bleesings,
Azikiwe

PS - For more info on Carpe Diem, click on the link on the right, just under the "About Me" blurb.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

A Long Overdue Update (Ethiopia, 08 - Charleston, Present)


Yes We Can! (in Kiswahili 
Posted by Picasa


Greetings from beautiful, hot and muggy Charleston, South Carolina. It’s good to be home.

The photo above is of the back of a dahla-dahla, public transportation in Arusha, Tanzania. I love the Obama Love in East Africa!

Wow, there’s so much to update I hardly know where to begin!

Since many of you have asked how you can buy a copy of the book, I’ll start by saying it’s not available for purchase yet. Details are below. Now I’ll move on to what’s most important to me these days.


Mom & Pop 
Posted by Picasa


Giving Thanks for my family’s health


Back at the beginning of June, after eighteen months of living out of my backpack, primarily leading experiential learning trips for US youth and working on my manuscript, I thought I’d finally have a chance to take a few deep breaths and relax during my two-week visit with my folks.

However, shortly after my return home, Mom was rushed to the emergency room for symptoms including nausea, vomiting, and loss of equilibrium. She didn’t want to go to the hospital, but luckily for us, Pop’s insistence prevailed. We all thought she was dehydrated, and would be back home after a night with an IV in her arm. To our surprise doctors discovered and subsequently removed two life-threatening cancerous tumors -one of which was as it was restricting the flow of fluid to and from her brain - in the nick of time. Things were touch and go for a while as she was in and out of ICU for a week, but she was back at home recuperating by time I left for Tanzania as an Expedition Leader for National Geographic Student Expeditions on June 20th. She was rushed to the hospital again last month after fainting while cooking breakfast. The doctors are still unsure of what caused the temporary loss of consciousness, but her recovery has been steady since then, so we all have reason for continued optimism.

June and July were scary months, but we’re all counting blessings because we’re fortunate that 1) Mom was diagnosed in time, 2) the tumors were operable, 3) she survived the surgery, and 4) she is more and more herself with each passing day.

There was also a brief scare with my grandmother this month. I had to call an ambulance for her when her slurred speech and disoriented state suggested she was having a stroke. Doctors were unable to confirm exactly what caused her fall and temporary loss of consciousness, but after a few days in the hospital, she was herself again, and she too is now recovering at home.

I’m glad to be home for another week spending quality time with my family, as well as cooking nutritious meals and chauffeuring Mom and Granma to doctor’s appointments, grocery stores and pharmacies.


Cousin Umar, Aunt Fatimah & Mom 
Posted by Picasa


Not only did I get to see my cousin and aunt, who were in town for Granma, last week, I’m also happy to report that for the first time in a very long time I got to hang out with my brother and sister, as well as all of my nieces and nephews this summer.


Anaya & Cheo Jr, my youngest niece & nephew 
Posted by Picasa



Sondra Saadeka, my oldest niece 
Posted by Picasa



My brother, Cheo, with Tawana’s family and all of my nieces & nephews, including Kamau, the oldest 
Posted by Picasa


Warm, heartfelt thanks go out to Ethan at Carpe Diem, as well as Jeff and the management at National Geographic Student Expeditions for their help in getting me home.

Giving thanks for friends and editors


Thanks for the love, fam, and apologies for the false alarm concerning the book. I had planned to self publish it in June. However, thanks to feedback from my editors, I’ve decided to put the book on hold for a while.

The overwhelming reviews were positive, but a few reviewers with agenting and publishing experience said the book has mass appeal, and they highly recommended that I work out the kinks and shop it to commercial publishers. I want it to be as good as possible, so I'm committed to giving it more time instead releasing sub par work into the atmosphere just because I want to be done with it.

Much love to friends and family who came out of the woodwork to plow through the manuscript and offer constructive criticism in a timely manner.

The New Plan

September – December: Leading a Carpe Diem expedition to Uganda and Tanzania (info at: www.CarpeDiemEducation.org).

December – March: Hopefully, teaching underprivileged kids how to snowboard in Colorado, and perfecting the query letter and book proposal for the manuscript (provided Mom and Pop are in good health).

Spring: Take my book advance money to a beach in Latin America - where it’ll last longer - and spend up to a year perfecting the manuscript. If all goes according to plan, it’ll be in book stores by summer 2011, if not sooner.

If I don’t secure a book deal by the spring, chances are I’ll head back to Korea for another year. Five-hour workdays, a low cost of living, and a nice salary will allow me to finish the book, pay off some bills and come back to the US with funds for the next phase of my life: earnestly working on getting my own experiential learning program for disadvantaged youth off the ground in Charleston by 2015. In my mind’s eye it’ll be a charter school featuring a multicultural curriculum of which service learning and international travel will be integral components. So, needless to say, it will be a multiyear endeavor.

National Geographic Student Expeditions, Tanzania!

(www.ngstudentexpeditions.com)


NGSE TZ, 2009, Group A 
Posted by Picasa



NGSE TZ, 2009 Group B, inside a baobab tree 
Posted by Picasa


Cultural prejudices aside, anyone who knows me well knows how much my youth was shaped by National Geographic magazine. I spent hours upon hours flipping through the publications, inserting myself into the photographs, imagining myself hiking the Inca trail to Machu Picchu, scuba diving off the coast of Thailand, exploring the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, and photographing lions while on safari in Africa. So it was a dream come true to serve as a National Geographic Student Expedition Leader for two separate trips this summer.

And what a fantastic summer it was!

Both groups were great. I especially appreciated how Group A surprised me with a birthday cookie on June 28th. The first group was your typical group of US high school students – happy to be abroad for the summer, but a little more excited about being in love with each other more than they were about being in Tanzania. Still, I was proud of them. They worked hard on the community service project (excavating a deteriorated water main) and they produced a top quality final photo exhibit.

But I fell in love with the second group. Whereas we had to enforce quiet hours and remind the first group to look out the windows on the second day of safari, the second group went to bed early on their own, woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed, and were ever vigilant during each day of the safari. Karma is beautiful. Their vigilance was rewarded with sightings of hundreds of elephants and elephant calves,

 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


A leopard and a leopard cub (one of the most elusive animals to see while on safari),

 
Posted by Picasa


Rhinos (East Africa’s other elusive animal), baboons and birds and ungulates galore,

 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa



Crested Crane, Ngorongoro Crater 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


AND Twenty five lions!


Young Male, Tarangire National Park 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


Including a zebra kill!


TWO Lionesses Stalking Zebra 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


 
Posted by Picasa


We also danced with Maasai warriors and spent some time with some of my favorite people, Mzee Pete and Mama Charlotte at the UAACC (www.uaacc.habari.co.tz).


Mzee Pete 
Posted by Picasa



Mama C 
Posted by Picasa

Mama C

Yep, it was an amazing trip, and in addition to giving thanks for all the wonderful people and sights we experienced, I also have to give thanks for the opportunity to help create better the world through empowering youth to live consciously and compassionately. Groups like the second one, in particular, remind me of why I love being an expedition leader.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t give thanks for the love of beautiful friends who took good care of me in Ethiopia and Kenya from December to May.


Ethiopian Highlands, Near Lalibela 
Posted by Picasa



Blue Nile Falls 
Posted by Picasa



With Pilgrims in Lalibela for Ethiopian Christmas 
Posted by Picasa



St George’s Church, Lalibela – view from the top 
Posted by Picasa



St. George’s from below – it’s carved out of solid rock! 
Posted by Picasa


I’m still happy, healthy and loving life, and I hope you are too!

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Wakati mwingine nina shukuru

Once again I'll soon be recounting my many blessings - like Mom's speedy recovery from brain surgery, and the numerous friends who've reviewed my manuscript (Asante sana!) - but right now time is way too short. Here's why:

http://www.ngsetana2009.blogspot.com
http://www.ngsetanb2009.blogspot.com

More Soon.

Amani,
Zik

Friday, April 24, 2009

The Manuscript Is Finally Finished!!!

Well, kinda... It won’t actually be complete until I’ve worked in the revisions suggested by my editors.

However, it IS finally in the hands of proofreaders and editors who will get they're feedback to me no later than May 15th (let me know if I've somehow overlooked you). IF all goes according to plan, the actual book will be available for purchase in mid June.

What’s it about, you ask?

The Quick Answer: Travel Memoirs through several US states and 20 countries on six continents.

The Longer Answer: It's a story about a boy from a family of limited means who nurtures dreams of traveling the world even though he knows no one who speaks a foreign language or owns a passport. Still, he holds onto aspirations of experiencing the adventures, languages, sights, sounds and wonders of the foreign cultures and places he grows up reading about in National Geographic magazine. He works his way through the University of Notre Dame, earning a Bachelor of Architecture degree, and through programs like AmeriCorps-NCCC and Peace Corps he pursues his augmented dream of uniting his three greatest passions: travel, youth development, and community service. As an adult who's worked with thousands of youth in 34 countries on six continents, he writes a book entitled Broke, but Never Broken: The Education and Travelogues of a World Traveling "Have Not" (working title), meant to inspire, encourage and assist disadvantaged youth and travel enthusiasts worldwide to follow their dreams too.

I'm giving thanks for all my friends and family helping me out along the way. If you'd like to see YOUR name on the acknowledgments page, I can DEFINITELY use help with the cover designs.

Here are a couple of ideas:





The second design is more along the lines of what I'm aiming for (Thanks, Imani!), but I am open to ALL ideas at this point. I know I need help with both covers and the spine.

Whether in words, picture(s) or both, I'd like red, black, green and gold on the cover(s) somehow. And if you can superimpose the image over the words following my signature without making it seem too busy (super light grayscale font?), I think that would be cool.

I'm accepting all designs at Azikiwe_Chandler@yahoo.com until May 15th.

Money's tight right now, as I THINK I'm going the self publishing route to start with. However, if your design is the one which actually graces the cover, you WILL be compensated at some point.

Yes, I know I should invest in Photoshop or some other graphics design program, but my laptop is too old and full (read: no memory) to accommodate such desires, even if I had the loot and time to figure it all out myself. So I’m asking the artistic and computer savvy among you to cut and paste this photo (or any from the blog) into your design program and have fun jazzing it up for me.



Greatly appreciated, Fam!

Just a quick update: I’ve been here in Africa working on the book since leading a 3-month experiential learning trip to Uganda and Tanzania for Carpe Diem International (www.CarpeDiemEducatioon.org) which ended in December. I’ve been relying on the generous hospitality of friends in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and Nairobi, Kenya during this time.

On May 24th I’ll make my way to Tanzania where I’ll catch a May 26th flight to New York. I’ll be in Vermont training for my next trip – Photography Group Leader for National Geographic Student Expeditions to Tanzania! (www.ngstudentexpeditions.com) - from May 29th to May 31st. I’ll be in Charleston from June 2nd until June 16th, New York from the 16th to the 19th, and Tanzania from June 20th until July 29th.

I hope you are happy, healthy and LOVING life. I am!

Peace&Blessings,
Zik
Azikiwe_Chandler@yahoo.com

PS – If you, or anyone you know, can help me track down the photographer who took the above photo (for Peace Corps Recruitment in 2000/2001), I’d greatly appreciate it. I want to make sure she gets her credit.

Brooklyn, New York • Charleston, South Carolina • The University of Notre Dame • Rome, Italy • Pompeii, Italy • Athens, Greece • Patras, Greece • Amsterdam, The Netherlands • Paris, France • Miami, Florida • New Orleans, Louisiana • Jamaica • Ascoli Piceno, Italy • Florence, Italy • Las Vegas, Nevada • Yosemite National Park, USA • Denver, Colorado • White Sands NP, New Mexico • Washington, DC • The Grand Canyon, USA • Utah • Helsinki, Finland • London, EnglandBarbados • Dolores, Nicaragua • Bluefields, Nicaragua • Omotepe, Nicaragua • La Fortuna, Costa Rica • Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica • Bocas del Toro, Panama • Utila, Honduras • Antigua, Guatemala • Teotihuacan, Mexico • San Diego, California • Los Angeles, California • Mammoth Mountain, California • Maui, Hawaii • Catania, Sicily • Sienna, Italy • Toronto, Canada • Whistler-Blackcomb, Canada • Tiwanaku, Bolivia • Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia • The Amazon River Basin, Bolivia • Lake Titicaca, Peru • Puno, Peru • Machu Picchu, Peru • The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador • Lucca, Italy • Treviso, Italy • Venice, Italy • Finca Ixobel, Guatemala • San Andres, Guatemala • San Marcos de Atitlan, Guatemala • Monteverde, Costa Rica • Playa Langosta, Costa Rica • Roatan, Honduras • Vail, Colorado • Kalokolevu Village, Fiji • Rotorua, New Zealand • Christ Church, New Zealand • The Outback, Australia • Byron Bay, Australia • Cairns, Australia • Crooked Tree Village, Belize • Atlanta, GA • Ilsan, South Korea • The Similan Islands, Thailand • Koh Phangan, Thailand • Bangkok, Thailand • Krabi, Thailiand • Angkor Wat, Cambodia • Vang Vieng, Laos • Great Wall of China • Bali, Indonesia • Lombok, Indonesia • Gili Trawangan, Indonesia • Boracay, Philippines • Salvador Bahia, Brazil • Kampala, Uganda • Fort Portal, Uganda • Jinja, Uganda • The Serengeti, Tanzania • Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania • Bangata Village, Tanzania • Moshi, Tanzania • UAACC, Tanzania • Zanzibar, TZ • Addis Ababa, Ethiopia • Lalibela, Ethiopia • Nairobi, Kenya

Monday, March 02, 2009

Kenya (1/1/09 - ?/?/09)

I've finally printed what I think will become the final product! I'm now in Nairobi reading through it with a red pen, and will be forwarding the 260+ pages to editors within the next 2 weeks!

I'll be updating the Ethiopia entry below with photos, etc asap. In the mean time, I want to publicly thank Kimberly, Wangui and Dennis for all they've done and are doing to help me.

More soon...

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Ethiopia (12/15/08 - 3/1/09)

I was hoping to upload photos of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the pilgrims which flocked there for Ethiopian Christmas; the Obama restaurant, bar and cafe in Bahir Dar; troops of red-breasted baboons near the Portuguese bridge; and the breathtaking landscapes of northern Ethiopia's highlands. However, the dial-up connections in the African country with the second to worst telecommunications on the continent aren't conducive to such actions. So you'll just have to google the images until I'm in a country with better connections.

I'm a little stressed out, but mostly happy, healthy and loving life. Hope you are too (not stressed out, but...).

Soon,
Zik

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Rest In Peace, Miriam Makeba



I've been counting many blessings recently. Among those not detailed under the "Giving Thanks" post below, I'm grateful to have white water rafted the Nile River, witnessed the Uganda Cranes National Football team beat Benin, helped build a chicken coop for 24 kids in need, etc. And I'm counting my blessings, once again, that I got to see "Mama Africa" alive and well in Kampala, at Uganda's first International Jazz Festival just one month ago.

After seeing a newspaper photo of her shortly after her arrival at the Entebbe Airport, I was worried that she might be performing from a wheelchair. I'm happy to report that at 76 years old, Mama Africa was not only on her feet during the entire hour long show, she actually danced the whole night, and put on a first rate performance which left the crowd showering her with a standing ovation.

She is truly a legend whose warrior queen's heart will be missed.

Miriam Makeba, South African songstress, dies at 76

LONDON: OBITUARY

Miriam Makeba, a South African singer whose voice stirred hopes of freedom among millions in her own country though her music was formally banned by the apartheid authorities she struggled against, died early Monday after performing at a concert in Italy. She was 76.

The Associated Press quoted hospital officials as saying she had died following a heart attack after being taken to a hospital in Castel Volturno near Naples in southern Italy. She had been singing at a concert in support of Roberto Saviano, an author who has received death threats since writing about organized crime. Makeba collapsed as she was leaving the stage, the South African authorities said.

Although she had been weakened by osteoarthritis, her death stunned many in South Africa, where she stood as an enduring emblem of the travails of black people under the apartheid system of racial segregation that ended with the release from prison of Nelson Mandela in 1990 and the first fully democratic elections in the country in 1994.

"One of the greatest songstresses of our time has ceased to sing," Foreign Minister Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma said in a statement. "Throughout her life, Mama Makeba communicated a positive message to the world about the struggle of the people of South Africa and the certainty of victory over the dark forces of apartheid and colonialism through the art of song."

Widely known as "Mama Africa," she was a prominent exiled opponent of apartheid after the South African authorities revoked her passport in 1960 and refused to allow her to return after she had traveled abroad. She was prevented from attending her mother's funeral after touring in the United States.

For 31 years, Makeba lived in exile, variously in the United States, France, Guinea and Belgium. South African state broadcasters banned her music after she spoke out against apartheid at the United Nations in 1976 - the year of the Soweto uprising that accelerated the demands of the black majority for democratic change.

"I never understood why I couldn't come home," Makeba said at an emotional homecoming in Johannesburg in 1990 as the apartheid system began to crumble, according to The AP. "I never committed any crime."

Music was a central part of the struggle against apartheid. The South African authorities of the era exercised strict censorship of many forms of expression, while many foreign entertainers discouraged performances in South Africa in an attempt to show their opposition to apartheid.

From exile she acted as a constant reminder of the events in her homeland as the white authorities struggled to contain or pre-empt unrest among the black majority.

Makeba wrote in 1987: "I kept my culture. I kept the music of my roots. Through my music I became this voice and image of Africa, and the people, without even realizing."

She was married several times and her husbands included the American black activist Stokely Carmichael, with whom she lived in Guinea, and the jazz trumpeter Hugh Masekela, who also spent many years in exile.

In the United States she became a star, touring with Harry Belafonte in the 1960s and winning a Grammy award with him in 1965. Such was her following and fame that she sang in 1962 at the birthday party of President John F. Kennedy.

But she fell afoul of the American music industry because of her marriage to Carmichael and her decision to live in Guinea.

In one of her last interviews, in May 2008 with the British music critic Robin Denselow, she said she had found her concerts in the United States being canceled. "It was not a ban from the government," she said. "It was a cancellation by people who felt I should not be with Stokely because he was a rebel to them."

Makeba was born in Johannesburg on March 4, 1932, the daughter of a Swazi mother and a father from the Xhosa people. She became known to South Africans in Johannesburg in the 1950s.

In her interview in 2008, Makeba said: "I'm not a political singer. I don't know what the word means. People think I consciously decided to tell the world what was happening in South Africa. No! I was singing about my life, and in South Africa we always sang about what was happening to us - especially the things that hurt us."

Check out her videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V74f9eIi9c0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDtlB9ZEjdo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHxkiXALQjU
http://hk.youtube.com/watch?v=kCc61z9IFu4

Monday, November 10, 2008

Giving Thanks for the Dawn of a Beautiful New Era! YES WE DID!!!





November 5th, 2008

I was in Guatemala in 2004 building houses with Habitat for Humanity when the Republicans stole the last election.

I remember having faith in our political system when, at a 2:30AM press conference the morning the votes were being tallied, Democratic Vice Presidential nominee, John Edwards announced, "John Kerry and I made a promise to the American people that in this election, every vote would count and every vote would be counted. Tonight, we are keeping our word."

While searching for answers to the debacle of the 2000 election, I found myself watching the documentary Unprecedented. It chronicled how George W. and Jeb Bush engineered and hatched a plan which systematically denied thousands of registered African American Floridians their right to vote. The African American disenfranchisement and hanging chad fiasco in Florida was essentially what allowed the Republicans to steal the 2000 election. With scenes of the film haunting my mind, a Democratic commitment to counting every vote and exposing fraud was exactly what I wanted and needed to hear.

According to ABC-TVs exit polls during the 2004 election, John Kerry, the Democratic Presidential nominee, was slated to carry Florida, Ohio, New Mexico, Colorado, Nevada, and Iowa. He was supposed to be in command of a landslide victory. Yet, somehow, Bush carried all of those swing states.

I didn’t want to entertain rumors about how John Kerry and Bush were distant cousins, but I became completely disillusioned with our political system when Kerry conceded defeat less than 24 hours later. There had not been enough time to investigate reports of voting machine malfunctions in places like Dixie County, Florida, where 77.5% of the 4,988 registered voters were registered as Democrats (compared to a mere 15% registered as Republicans), but 4,433 votes were cast for Bush.

I found it impossible to believe that a US American public, which saw the largest federal budget surplus in US history turn into the largest federal budget deficit in US history, would re-elect the man responsible for our downward spiral.

If some tragedy hadn’t befallen them personally, every US citizen knew someone who, during Bush’s tenure, had become unemployed, could no longer afford health care or college, or was killed in Iraq. How could the party which created these travesties be re-elected? I concluded that the parties were in bed together, and that our political system was broken beyond repair.

It made me physically ill when I considered that my tax dollars financed the death and maiming of countless soldiers and innocent Iraqi children in an illegal and unjustified invasion of a sovereign nation, a nation which had done us no harm, nor posed any threat to us. In my mind, we invaded Iraq to make the rich richer, at the cost of making the poor poorer. And not just in terms of money. Yes, we were losing jobs, health care, and financial aid, but this time, whether disadvantaged US American soldiers or disadvantaged Iraqi civilians, the poor were paying with their lives.

Still in Guatemala, shortly after Kerry’s concession speech, I awoke with tears in my eyes from a terrifying dream featuring cities turned to rubble, with blood and dismembered and disemboweled bodies everywhere. I decided right then and there that I would not live in the US again until we had a president that I could be proud of. One who worked on establishing peace in the world through trying to create a level playing field, instead of stepping on the poor and defenseless to make the wealthy more powerful. I could NOT have my tax dollars support Bush’s evil regime for another four years.

I’ve enjoyed traveling and living abroad ever since. Sure, I wished I could have been home for the birth of my niece and nephew, a couple of weddings and a handful of other specific events. But generally speaking, since the beginning of my self-imposed exile four years ago, I’ve wanted to be in whatever country I was visiting or living in more than I’ve wanted to be in the US. That was, until last night.

I have finally made it to Africa, where I realized a childhood dream, photographing lions, giraffes, elephants and gazelles while on safari in the Serengeti. I am finally on the continent which gave birth to humanity and civilization; the land of my forefathers. I am enjoying the embrace of brothers and sisters, and mamas and babas on this continent of abundant warmth and life. In fact, I’ve been planning on staying here for at least a year so that I can visit as many countries as possible before I leave the continent.










Gettin' high with the Maasai!



However, for the first time in YEARS, as of last night, I actually found myself wanting to be home more than I want to be any place else in the world right now.

And it’s not just because I was robbed the night before last.

===============================================================

November 4th, 2008

So it's shortly after midnight. Curry, my housemate and co-leader on this 3-month experiential learning tour of East Africa, has gone to bed. I've just finished making a huge pot of chili for the appreciation/farewell party we’ve planned for the Tanzanian families who’ve hosted us for the past 10 days. I've bolted and padlocked the iron gates to the front and back doors, as well as bolted the wooden doors from the inside. As I was doing so, I found myself wondering if I'm just paranoid, since in my 37 years of life I've never had to deal with burglars or robbers in any of the 30+ countries in which I've traveled.

I'm at the dining table listening to my iPod on my mini speakers as I trace and cut the letters spelling out "Asante Sana," which will be hung on the wall to express our gratitude to the families.

All of a sudden I hear a commotion outside the front door; there are loud banging noises and flashlights shining through the kitchen window just before men start pounding on the gate and door.

I yell, "Who is it?!"

"Police! Police!" they thunder.

But I know better. I reach for the large kitchen knife I had just borrowed from Mama Nema to cut the vegetables for the chili. Now I've got a knife in one hand and mop handle in the other, and I'm standing in front of the door, ready to attack whoever comes through.

Interestingly enough, I'm quite lucid, and actually thinking this is either a joke or a misunderstanding. They couldn't possibly be coming to harm us.

I had recently read in a Kenyan newspaper (I bought it for the Obama cover story), that a mob had hacked two elderly women to death who were accused of being witches.

I know it doesn't make much sense, but I was actually thinking that once they came through the door and saw that I wasn't a witch, they'd run on to the next house. (leaving me alone to alert the proper authorities)

OK, so again, I'm in front of the door, first trying to bolt the bottom latch while they're steady trying to kick it down. Then, after realizing it was futile, I was again poised to attack, but hoping I wouldn't have to.

Then there's a loud, "BANG!!" which sounded like a gun shot. I figured I shouldn’t be directly in the path of blazing guns, So I sidestepped out of the hallway, and into the kitchen, still holding the knife, but trying to call Frida, our Tanzanian contact, at the same time.

All of a sudden, four thugs break down the door and rush in. The first one has a machete and comes straight at me. He thumps me rapidly, twice on the chest with the side of the blade before I can react with anything more than yelling, "NO!" over and over again.

The next thing I know, the machete wielding thug is picking up the cell phone I just dropped, there's another guy with a machete in the living room stuffing my iPod and speakers into his pockets. In an instant there are three guys who have me cornered in the kitchen. One has a machete and is blocking the doorway to my right. Another has a mini sledge hammer in one hand, and a regular hammer in the other. I can't see what weapons the third guy has because he's standing behind Hammer Man, and their both blocking the doorway in front of me. They’re all yelling, "Put down the knife! Give us money!" I'm in a corner trying to determine the best thing to do.

On the one hand, dropping the weapons and letting them take everything they wanted might have saved my life. On the other hand, being weaponless meant they could kill me and still take everything they wanted. I felt like I was in a movie, and I could hear the peanut gallery saying, "Don't put down that knife!"

I didn't see any guns, so I advanced the knife toward Kitchen Machete Man, who was advancing towards me. He knocked the knife out of my hand with the machete. Now weaponless and truly fearing for my life, I lost my mind. I attacked him just as he was raising the machete above his head. Grabbing his right hand (the one holding the machete) with my right hand, and forcing his arm behind his back, I was able to wrest the machete from his grasp.

Living Room Machete Man rushed in from the adjacent room to help his accomplice, but when he realized I had the machete, he dropped the boom box he was trying to make off with, and lost his hat as he bolted from the house trying to catch up with his 3 accomplices.

I was dumbfounded that they scared so easily, but I’m guessing the crazed look in my eyes must have had something to do with it as well…

I ran behind them, hoping to somehow get the gate and door bolted again, and yelling, "Curry, call Frida!"

Three of them ran away while the fourth guy threw rocks at me, presumably to keep me from pursuing them.

Frida called her brother, Peter, who lives in the other house in the compound (and whom I don't know why wasn't already awake and investigating, especially considering the ruckus being made withhin the walls of his compound).

Peter and his nephew finally gave chase, and returned a few minutes later with a Maasai and another brother who patrolled the yard until sunrise.

All said and done, I'm pissed about having lost 7,000+ songs, a good portion of which will be extremely difficult to come by again (Nope, most of them aren't stored anywhere, since my inferior laptop doesn't like iTunes.), however, I'm glad that there was no harm done to me or Curry, and that they really only made off with the iPod, speakers and cell phone. The damage could have been much much worse. Especially if they had busted in while we were both asleep.

I was harboring a bit of negative energy for most of the morning after the robbery.

I was trying to purge it from my system on the way to town, where I was hoping to activate my personal cell phone since my work one was stolen.

To make a long story short, I wasted 45 minutes with a couple of guys who were trying to help me get my phone operational. According to the one who took me to his friend, I needed to have my phone "flashed" so the new sim card would work. In the end, not only did the new sim card not work, but to make matters worse, they somehow erased ALL of the phone numbers that were in the cell's memory, DESPITE the fact that my new “friend” promised me that wouldn't be the case. These were phone numbers from Korea, the US, Brazil and Italy that I don't have saved anywhere else. So needless to say, I was in a funk on my way back to Bangata.

At first I began to entertain that whole "bad things happen in threes" superstition that folks like to talk about. I found myself worrying about the elction, and thinking I am NOT feeling Africa right now!

Then I reminded myself of the power of the mind, and committed to looking for the positive sides of all of this. I took long deep breaths, breathing in Obama's victory, and breathing out negativity. Sure, I had good reason to be in a funk, but that's not where I wanted to be. After all, I'm the proud African American leader of this group of US youth, not some helpless victim.



I can't judge Africa, Tanzania or Bangata by the thugs that robbed me. I'd rather remember the smiles and genuine concern and condolences from Mama Neema, Mama Frida, and the host families at the farewell party, just as I'd want them to see Obama in me or me in Obama, rather than judge me according to the actions of a dim-witted Bush.


Mama Neema


Carpe Diem Africa '08 & Bangata Host Families

Reflecting on the break-in makes me give thanks for the considerable amount of security I have in this world. I'm grateful that unlike so many people in the world (e.g. The Congo, Palestine, etc.), I'm not so vulnerable as to have to fear for my life, or those of my loved ones, on a daily basis. Yes, I am indeed counting my blessings today.

===============================================================

True, while in Brazil my credit card was cloned and my camera was lifted from a friend's house, but in all my travels, I had never been assaulted before two nights ago. In fact, whenever people asked whether I ever feared for my safety abroad, I always answered that I had never encountered a situation overseas which struck more fear in my heart than seeing red and blue lights in my rearview mirror while driving in the US. Until two nights ago, I had never feared for my life while overseas the way I had when cops approached my vehicle, guns drawn and shouting, because I supposedly ran a red light.

But it’s not fear which makes me want to be home right now. It’s hope and pride. I wanted to be among the 200,000 people celebrating in Grant Park, Chicago. I want to hear the morning announcers on Black radio stations, watch talk shows, and engage in barber shop discussions.

A Black man with an African first name and middle and last names eerily similar to some of the US’s biggest "enemies" (Osama Bin Laden and Saddam Hussein), has been elected President of the United States of America!

This truly is a glorious time. I've always trusted that if I believed in objectives I mentally conceived, I could achieve them. But there was always that tiny notion of limitations. Not anymore. Brother Barack has shown us that with determination and innovation, in this day and age, even Black men in the US of A can accomplish whatever they want to.

AND, during his acceptance speech, the brother channeled two martyrs who paved the way for him!

Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr: “The arc of the universe bends slowly but it always bends toward justice.”

Malcolm X: “We declare our right on this earth to be a man, to be a human being, to be respected as a human being, to be given the rights of a human being in this society, on this earth, in this day, which we intend to bring into existence by any means necessary.”

Barack Obama: “It's the answer that led those who've been told for so long by so many to be cynical and fearful and doubtful about what we can achieve to put their hands on the arc of history and bend it once more toward the hope of a better day.

It's been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date, in this election, at this defining moment, change has come to America.”

So I’m fine now. Nay, I’m ecstatic that the regime has finally come to an end! AND that we have a conscious Black President to boot!

I am overjoyed that I no longer have to make excuses for an apathetic US public or a warmongering President. I am once again proud to be a citizen of the United States of America.

And I am finally ready to go home.

But…not just yet… Since finishing my manuscript is priority #1, and seeing as much of the continent thereafter is priority # 2, I probably won’t be home until after the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

However, I must say that being in DC for the inauguration is VERY enticing…we’ll see.

I’m open to suggestions, but right now, I'm here in Tanzania celebrating the dawn of a beautiful new era with African brothers and sisters, volunteering at a children's home in Moshi(www.AmaniKids.org), and looking forward to scuba diving from Zanzibar, visiting friends in Kenya, and finishing my book in Ethiopia. I am happy, healthy and loving life!

==========================================================

The Thursday Before Election Night

I've just arrived at the United African Alliance Community Center (UAACC), and I literally have goosebumps as Mzee Pete O'Neal is showing me around the compound. (Mzee means respected elder in Kiswahili.) Mzee Pete and his wife, Mama Charlotte, have built what I've been dreaming of building for years: A center which contributes to the positive development of the community through education and the sharing of knowledge. The UAACC supports the community, and in turn is supported by the community, as well as international volunteers. They offer free classes in everything from English and Spanish to computers and recording music. There are classrooms, a cafe, an auditorium, a radio station, dormitories and more, all painted with beautiful murals of notables like Malcolm, Martin and Mumia, and slogans like "Blessed be the Panther" and "The Revolution Will Not be Televised." You can find more information at www.uaacc.habari.co.tz.


"Africa Unite," "UAACC," & "Power to All the People"

Forty years ago Mzeee Pete was the Chairman of the Kansas City chapter of the Black Panther Party. Due to J. Edgar Hoover's labeliing of the Panthers (as well as most organizations dedicated to the upliftment of African Americans) as anti-American, and his FBI's propaganda campaign, most people remember the Panthers as rabble rousing militants hell bent on starting gun fights with the police. That's a gross misrepresentation.

It's true that they bought guns and policed the police who were routinely brutalizing African American during the 60's and early 70's. However, in addition to offering free medical care and other services in disadvantaged communities, they were also responsible for starting free breakfast programs which fed 10,000 disadvantaged inner city youth across the nation every morning before they went to school.

The Free Breakfast for School Children program made such a powerful impact on low income communities that it was later adopted by the US federal government, even while the FBI painted the Panthers as communists and did everything within its power to destroy it.

During a time when leaders like Malcom X, Martin Luther King Jr. and Fred Hampton (A Chicago leader of the Panthers) were being assasinated while Huey Newton, Bobby Seale and Geronimo Pratt were being jailed on trumped up charges, Mzee Pete saw the writing on the wall when he was falsely accused of illegally transporting a firearm across state lines. He joined the ranks of Eldridge Cleaver and Assata Shakur. He fled the US, and has been living in exile here in Tanzania ever since.

In true Panther fashion, with the help of Mzee Geronimo, who became a neighbor shortly after he was released from prison, one of the UAACC's first projects was digging a well which now provides the community of Maja Chai with clean water. They've been uplifting the community ever since.

After showing me the orphanage they're putting the finishing touches on, Mzee Pete says, "If you don't have plans on Sunday, you should come on out. We're going to have traditional drumming and dancing to present the orphanage to the community. That's going to start around noon. But I've also promised the SIT students a pre-Thanksgiving dinner, and you are welcome too. You can bring the whole group, and it won't cost you a thing!"

The group enjoyed the show, food and hospitality so much that we opted to stay there on election night.

It's interesting to think that Mzee Pete and Mama Charlotte could have built the UAACC in the US, where it's just as needed, were it not for the fact that he's still a fugitive of US law. Just as interesting to me is that until Obama won Iowa in the Democratic primaries, I thought I'd have to build my school outside of the US too.


Mzee Pete

Now I have hope.

And so does everyone I know. In fact, I smiled, thinkiing, "My sentiments exactly," when my father's first words upon receiving the phone from my mother on election morning were, "You can come home now."

And it's not just hope that I can return to the US, but hope that we are entering an era where opportunities will help help diminish the divide between the haves and have nots, leading to a world with much less desperation; a world where justice, compassion and equality will come to replace violence, crime and despair.



Obama won his landslide vitory on a platform of universal education and health care. I'm glad the revolution is being televised. (Can you make out Malcolm and Martin celebrating the fruits of their labor?)

And I'm really happy Obama deployed 5,000 lawyers to Florida to make sure the election couldn't be stolen this time!



I stayed up all night watching the election results come in. When CNN projected: President Elect Barack Obama, I ran to my room to grab non-alcoholic champagne (no alcohol on the program), popped the cork, and shared it with the group and Tanzanians who were watching with us.

I’m not ashamed to admit I shed tears during his victory speech. I’ll leave you with the words which touched me the most:

“Above all, I will never forget who this victory truly belongs to. It belongs to you. It belongs to you.

I was never the likeliest candidate for this office. We didn't start with much money or many endorsements. Our campaign was not hatched in the halls of Washington. It began in the backyards of Des Moines and the living rooms of Concord and the front porches of Charleston. It was built by working men and women who dug into what little savings they had to give $5 and $10 and $20 to the cause.

Progress can't happen without you, without a new spirit of service, a new spirit of sacrifice.

So let us summon a new spirit of patriotism, of responsibility, where each of us resolves to pitch in and work harder and look after not only ourselves, but each other.




Building a chicken coop for a fanily of 27, Ft. Portal, Uganda

And to all those watching tonight from beyond our shores, from parliaments and palaces, to those who are huddled around radios in the forgotten corners of the world, our stories are singular, but our destiny is shared, and a new dawn of American leadership is at hand.

Tonight we proved once more that the true strength of our nation comes not from the might of our arms or the scale of our wealth, but from the enduring power of our ideals: democracy, liberty, opportunity and unyielding hope.

That's the true genius of America: that America can change. Our union can be perfected. What we've already achieved gives us hope for what we can and must achieve tomorrow.”

I think about all that [106 year old Ann Nixon Cooper] has seen throughout her century in America — the heartache and the hope; the struggle and the progress; the times we were told that we can't, and the people who pressed on with that American creed: Yes we can.

America, we have come so far. We have seen so much. But there is so much more to do. So tonight, let us ask ourselves — if our children should live to see the next century; if my daughters should be so lucky to live as long as Ann Nixon Cooper, what change will they see? What progress will we have made?

This is our chance to answer that call. This is our moment.

This is our time, to put our people back to work and open doors of opportunity for our kids; to restore prosperity and promote the cause of peace; to reclaim the American dream and reaffirm that fundamental truth, that, out of many, we are one; that while we breathe, we hope. And where we are met with cynicism and doubts and those who tell us that we can't, we will respond with that timeless creed that sums up the spirit of a people: Yes, we can.


From high fives when I'm in my Obama shirt to wheel covers...


painted cars, murals, and street art, Obama Love is HUGE in East Africa!

PS - I just wanted to publicly thank Mama Shukuru, who put me intouch with Mama Upesi (Asante Sana to her too), who put me in touch with the O'Neals. Greatly appreciated, family.

FYI - According to Mzee Pete, the "gunshots" were actually little explosives raiders use to scare villagers into staying in their homes. Apparently it worked on our landlord. Mama Frida let slip that Peter was slow to come to our aid because, through his window, he saw even more men outside our house than the 4 who had me under siege inside.

Friday, August 22, 2008

I'm Finally Going to Africa!

on September 10th to Uganda and Tanzania, leading a trip for Carpe Diem, to be exact. Click on the Carpe Diem Africa, 2008 Student Blog link to the right for updates.

Italy (7/1 - 8/14)


Venice


My EIL Group, "Team Viva La Vita"


Team Viva La Vita with their host families in Reggio Calabria


Me

That's My Pop!

Amistad Arrives in Charleston via Sullivan's Island
Written by Bill Pinkney - Captain of S/V Amistad
Sunday, 18 May 2008



Sullivan’s Island is visible from the Charleston Maritime Center dock and seeing AMISTAD anchored off on the horizon gives a touch of the 19th Century to the panorama of Charleston Harbor. Riding out to the ship on the 28-foot RIB (rigid inflatable boat) was a bone-jarring experience. Bounding from wave-top to wave-top was fun until the rhythm was broken by missing the crest and landing in the trough. The landing transferred the force from the hull to the seat and to my unpadded posterior and loosened my dental fillings. Seeing AMISTAD growing larger as we approached, brought home the fact that this vessel, that means so much to me, had done exactly what it was built to do: carry the message of the AMISTAD story to the far reaches of the Atlantic World built on the labor of Africans stolen from their native lands.

Clambering over the rail, I was met by many hands extended to help and greet me. Familiar faces smiled and welcomed me aboard. Both the Middle Passage crew and the oncoming crew were aboard, giving the decks an energy that anticipated the upcoming task: formal arrival at the first Mainland U.S. port since June of 2007. Off to the land-side was Sullivan’s Island, for many years the site of quarantine for newly-arrived slaves and now the site of the beachfront homes of the well-heeled. We lay at anchor, while on shore crowds gathered for a remembrance ceremony within sight of AMISTAD as a backdrop.

The sun had long passed its zenith and was slowly moving toward the end of the day through hazy skies. Giant container ships passed each other in the narrow channel, unaware of the pageant taking place below their lofty bows. Against the tall silhouettes of gantry cranes of the Port of Charleston, we could see the sails of the schooners sailing out to escort us in. As they drew near and the modern vessels faded into the cityscape, the visual clock spun quickly back in time. Virginia, Spirit of South Carolina, and Corwith Cramer charged against the tide with all sails set.

We were hove-to as they passed us; Spirit of South Carolina fired a cannon salute as they drove close to the shore where the remembrance ceremony was taking place. In conversation later with participants of the ceremony, I discovered that those on shore did not understand that the cannon blast was in recognition and respect for what was happening ashore. Kudos to Captain Tony Arrow, former Chief Mate on AMISTAD, now Master of the South Carolina state flag-ship for his sensitivity to the meaning of the whole activity taking place.

As the parade rounded up and headed back towards the harbor, AMISTAD set sail and fell in line behind Corwith Cramer. On deck, the crew launched into singing and chanting of Sierra Leone songs: it was so right for who and what AMISTAD is. Sea shanties sung on most tall ships are so out-of-place on these decks.

Along with Captain Eliza Garfield, I had an opportunity to share my thoughts and feelings of what this event and the entire Atlantic Freedom Tour meant. The crew that crossed from Sierra Leone was recognized for the achievement they had accomplished. The oncoming crew was charged with the responsibility continuing the mission at the same high standards set.

The light was falling as we approached the floating barge where we were to dock. We could see people waving from the docks, my daughter, son-in-law and grand-children were immediately spotted by me as we fought the current and cross-wind to make a safe landing along side.

Comments (1)
...
written by Osei Terry Chandler , May 25, 2008

A wonderful experience to share a memorial program with members of the crew, the Gullah Geechie family and all who are concerned about our history, our future and our present.

As a member of the Charleston Remembrance Program, I would remind all who read this that we, along with an ever growing number of like minded people around the globe, commemorate the Middle Passage EVERY SECOND SATURDAY in June with a Libation and Prayer Ceremony sharply at 12 noon EST. While our ceremony is held at Sullivan's Island, others do the same in Brooklyn at Coney Island, Portobello Panama, San Francisco Bay Area, Cape Coast Ghana and ANYWHERE that you are at that time.

Special thanks to Donald George for inviting me to be part of the program on this visit.

Osei Terry Chandler

Teaching in Salvador Bahia, Brazil (3/08 - 5/08)



Olá ZIK!

Espero que esse periodo que você passou aqui tenha sido proveitoso, espero que você tenha aprendido com nosco. Eu tenho certeza que aprendemos muito com você.

Você mostrou pra nos que os EUA é muito mais do que agente vê na TV nos filmes de hollywood, nos somos muito parecidos, embora estejamos do outro lado do mundo.

Acredito que você passou por varias experiencias aqui que foram únicas, espero um dia assim como você poder conhecer outras campos, lugares, paises vivenciar outras culturas. Na minha opinião isso faz com que o ser humano cresça, perceba que os nossos problemas podem ser minimos ou gigantes diante dos outros, depende de como os encaramos.

Então missionário ZIK, só tenho que desejar boa sorte, espero que possamos nos encontrar em outras missões!

Segue em anexo, algumas lembrancças para você recordar dos momentos que passou aqui em Salbador-BA.

Um forte abraço
--
Marcos da Cruz - Diretor
Diretoria de Relações Públicas
Gritto Comunicação



==================================================
(Author's translation)

ZIK Hello!

I hope this time you spent here has been fruitful, I hope you have learned with nosco. I'm sure we learned a lot from you.

You get shown us that the U.S. is much more than you see on TV actor in films from hollywood, we are very similar, although we are across the world.

I believe you went through various experiences here that were unique, and I hope one day you can learn about other fields, places, countries experiencing other cultures. I think this gives the human being grow, realize that our problems can be minimum or giant front of others, depends on how the face.

Then missionary ZIK, only that I wish good luck, I hope that we can be found in other missions!

Please find attached, some lembrancças to remind you of times now here in Salbador-BA.

A strong hug

Thursday, March 20, 2008

A More Perfect Union



Since I live life on a shoestring budget, I rarely donate money to any cause. But since I can´t make phone calls or knock on doors from Brazil, I´m putting a check in the mail TODAY! (can´t donate online from here either) I hope you give him 40 minutes and do what you can to help get Obama elected too.

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

"Yes We Can!" & Counting Blessings



With so many changing variables, life has been a whirlwind of friends and family covering thousands of miles across three continents for the past few months. Sorry for the hiatus. updates, photos and personal emails are forthcoming.

But right now, I just had to let you know that my entire being is invigorated, and I am very happy right now!

Since I believe religion is a construct of man that humans have used to oppress and kill one another, I am not a religious person (I can’t believe in a god that would have people killing one another in his name), but I am spiritual. I believe in a Creative Energy that many refer to as God or the Supreme Being, and I believe that when we wholeheartedly work towards realizing our goals, the Universe conspires to help us.

Whether this help comes in the form of serendipitous acquaintances or tasting my mom’s cooking, these are blessings. And acknowledging these blessings is a way of giving thanks which augments positive energy and keeps the good blessings flowing through us.

So today I am counting my blessings. I’m thankful for my good health and high spirits. I’m appreciative that Mom continues to share her beautiful smile and infectious laughter with the world on a daily basis, despite the pain and discomfort of chemotherapy. I’m grateful that I was able to hug, kiss and cook for my family in Charleston just a couple of weeks ago. I’m grateful that my home state represented, giving me the opportunity to hear our next president’s victory speech (Brother Obama after the SC Dem Primaries) at an internet café in Bahia while the Escola Olodum procession vibrated the buildings of Pelourinho with their thundering Samba rhythms. I’m grateful for the broadest palette of feminine beauty I’ve ever seen – well proportioned bodies in hues from vanilla to deep dark chocolate smiling and dancing (with rhythm!), and befriending a solo traveler at every turn! I’m grateful for the tons of new friends who are too numerous to mention here (You know who you are ;). But I have to thank Erin for letting me leave a ton of luggage in her room in Korea, Alina for her hospitality and for being the conduit through which I met so many cool people on Gili Trawangan and Lombok, Ward and the Peace Corps Volunteers who invited me to their new year’s eve dinner on Boracay, Cynthia and Taji (& family) for their visit and care packages through the years, Tati for lending me her “couch” until I found an apartment, and Shamyra for connecting me to a ton of Bahia contacts. I’m grateful that I found the apartment I was hoping for at the price I was hoping for, even though everyone told me I was insane to think I’d be so lucky during carnival. I’m grateful to be dancing to live, African rooted world class music on the beaches and streets of Bahia. I’m overjoyed at the fact that my soul is vibrant and smiling…

I’m an incurable optimist. I plan for the worst, but hope for the best. I don’t take my good luck for granted, but I set plans in motion and expect good things to happen. The beautiful thing is that despite the odds, good things usually do happen. I’m smiling as I think about my good fortune right now, and I’m reminded to be grateful for my parents, once again, for instilling within me an incurable sense of optimism. All things are possible when we truly believe they are.

I plan to post updates from Indonesia, The Philippines and Bahia after carnival. In the mean time, I just wanted you to know that I am happy, healthy, loving life and counting my blessings. I hope you are too.

PS – No, the book is not yet finished. I’ll be here in Bahia until it is.
PS2 – If you’re in one of the Super Tuesday states make sure you get out and show the world that the people of the US are not as dimwitted as Bush makes us seem, and that we are ready for change in the form of Barack Obama.
PS3 - If you´re in Charleston and in need of a therapeutic massage, give my mom a call: (843)814-3698





Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Celebrating the Legacy of Lucky Dube

It's a sad commentary on the world in which we live when talentless clowns, masquerading as artists (Soulja Boy, 50 Cent, etc.), and promoting violence, misogyny, crime, materialism and buffoonery prosper while true artists like Lucky Dube die.

It's sad because they talk about "keeping it real" while shirking responsibility and abandoning the hood as soon as possible to floss in expensive cars and homes that they can barely afford, while continuing to spread their deadly poison. It's sad because the clowns don't realize how powerful music is. It's sad because their poison encourages young brothers across the globe to take the life of other brothers. It's sad because in fact, it is their poison which is responsible for Lucky Dube's death. A responsible father dropping off his kids was murdered because some thugs wanted to carjack his Volkswagen Polo. The "artists" alone are not solely responsible, but the irony is enough to make me want to cry.

But I won't lament too long. I thank God that I was born to parents who introduced me (and South Carolina) to Lucky Dube's positive vibes.

Fortunately for us, Lucky Dube understood the power of music. Like a South African Bob Marley, he produced 22 albums promoting peace, love, harmony and understanding, and was a huge force in the global fight against apartheid. He is one of the artists my father brought to Charleston, SC, and I am grateful that I got to see him perform live.

So rather than be sad that he is no longer with us, I will rejoice in his legacy of musical intervention (Lucky Dube has been in heavy rotation on the Ipod since last week, and will continue to be for at least the rest of the month.), and I will give thanks for positive artists who continue to promote peace, love and unity.

If you're in South Carolina, tune in to Roots Music Karamu on public radio Saturday night from 10pm to Midnight to hear a two hour tribute to Lucky Dube. If you're in Korea, go to Club 500 (in Hongdae across from Nabi) to hear the positive vibrations of I & I Djangdan Sound System performing live Saturday night.

Rest in peace Lucky Dube.

War and Crime

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Just In Case You Thought Racism Was Dead

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Bali, The Philippines, Home and BRAZIL!!!

I won't be leaving Korea for another 3 months, but I'm excited that I'll soon be traveling again, and finally to another one of my dream destinations: Salvador Bahia, Brazil!

I bought the ticket 2 days ago. I'll be arriving in Bahia on January 24th, just in time to get set up before joining the carnival that kicks off a week later. My return ticket is for June 16th (just in case), but I still plan to stay in Brazil for 3 months and try to get back to the US via 2 month's travel (hopefully by boat) through the Caribbean.

I just finished my final Korean busy season, so it's smooth sailing from here on out. I celebrated no longer needing my alarm clock by checking out I & I Djangdan Sound System, my friends Kim Ban Jang's (of Windy City) and Francois's dub project in Seoul last night. Good music and good people always amount to a good time for me.

Speaking of good music, Windy City just released their third CD, Countryman's Vibration. I had an irie time at the concert/release party a few weekends ago, and I recommend picking up the CD (and not just because they thank me in the liner notes!).


Windy City, Escola Alegria, Sandra (from Bahia) and Francois (DJ Seafran) backstage

It's been a while since I've blogged... I meant to do a piece on one of my favorite nights in Korea - attending Francois and Jae Yeon's wedding. It was truly a Beautiful 8-hour experience featuring artistic photography (a slide show of the couple projected onto a building across the street) and talented musicians that began on a rooftop and ended at a cool after hours spot.



Hopefully I'll be able to do it justice with a proper write-up after I get a few more chapters under my belt, but I'm currently behind schedule on the book. So if you don't see anything here for the next 3 months, just know that I am diligently working on the book, and look forward to the photos and entries from Bali (11/30-12/28), The Philippines (12/29-1/11), Charleston (1/16-1/23) and Bahia (1/24-?) that should start appearing in December.

PS - Any links, advice, suggestions or recommendations on the above destinations will be greatly appreciated. Also, scroll down for a description of busy season and/or videos Windy City.

Friday, June 15, 2007

CHAMPIONS!!!



After a long 13 game season, Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club was finally crowned champions of the Division 2 Seoul Sunday Football League after last Sunday's win. We actually have one game left, but our point total is so far ahead of the other 7 teams (3pts for a win, and 1 for a tie), that no other team can catch us.

With 5 clean sheets (no goals scored by the opposition), and the least goals scored against us, our defense, lead by yours truly is ranked number one in the league.

With players from Ireland, the United Kingdom, Morocco, Canada, Wales, South Africa, Belgium, Russia and Korea, it's an international team that I'm proud to be a part of. They've become part of my family here in Korea. Big thanks to Mike, Carl, Barry, Dima and Andrew. They aren't in the photo, but they are also members of this championship team.

PS - The book's going well: 7 chapters down, approximately 23 more to go :)

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Beijing, China (4.28.07-5.5.07)


I've dreamed of walking The Great Wall ever since seeing pictures of it as a child. So I'm counting blessings once again to have had another dream realized. I truly enjoyed Beijing!



However, this is going to be a very short entry as I have yet to get caught up on emails. In fact, I’m giving up on emails for a while. I’ve been stagnant in terms of book writing, so this is my last distraction until I have at least 5 chapters thoroughly worked out.

Sincere apologies to those of you who haven’t heard from me in a long while. Don’t worry about me. I am well, but it’s going to be a while longer, as you won’t hear from me until I am in a book writing habit. I appreciate your support.



The Forbidden City was my first stop. It’s called the Forbidden City because it was off limits to most Chinese for 500 years. It was the residence of the emperors, his family and his concubines.

It’s a massive complex, and despite walking around with an automated guide chatting in my ear, seeing it in its current museum state made it hard to imagine how the spaces were used during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Watching the movie The Curse of the Golden Flower brought it to life. I can’t say I agree with the general message of the film, but it is an awesome film. I highly recommend checking it out for the cinematography if nothing else. The martial arts and battle scenes at the end of the movie were the most impressive I’ve ever seen.



The Temple of Heaven Park was also an impressive architectural complex.

Beijing is preparing for the 2008 Olympics, and there are construction sites everywhere. I was impressed by the subway billboards I came across saluting great Olympians like Jesse Owens, Wilma Rudolph and Muhammad Ali.





Thanks to my fiend and excellent host, Heerang, I learned that the Ali billboard loosely translated says, “Perhaps you didn’t know that Muhammad Ali threw away his medal.” It features a quote by Nelson Mandela explaining how Ali’s character and willingness to be stripped of his medal rather than fight in a war he opposed (the Vietnam war) inspired him.

I like that the Chinese are paying homage to the likes of Ali and Mandela. I also like that they seem to waste NOTHING.

It seems like the Chinese will eat anything. Don’t get me wrong, I come from a culture that eats pig intestines and feet, so I’m not dissin’, but I was surprised to find such things as duck bills, chicken feet, fish bladders and bullfrogs on the menus of some restaurants. And on snack street they were serving everything from seahorses, lizards, snakes, beetles and starfish to sheep’s testicles on wooden skewers.





There was a time when I was willing to try almost anything…but that was several years ago. I had to pass on the aforementioned delicacies.

Hopefully I’ll be able to post a photo of 11 acrobats on a single bicycle soon. Until then, I’ll leave you with one last photo of the Great Wall.

Lokomotiv Goyang FC 2007



Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club is doing well this season. We were number 1 for 4 weeks straight, but too much drinking at last Saturday's World DJ Festival had us dragging @ss last Sunday. A 2-1 loss dropped us to second place.

They're a good group of guys to play soccer with and hang out with. Some of my best friends in Korea. Last weekend should serve as a wake up call. I expect we'll be back at the top after a win next Sunday. You can keep tabs on us via the link to the right.

On the Virginia Tech Shootings

It disturbs me how self centered most US Americans are. If we could sincerely mourn for the countless people dying in Iraq as quickly as we were to mourn for the Virginia Tech students, there would have been significant enough pressure on the US government to have ended the invasion by now...

Our Humanity (by Margaret Cho - 4/17/07)

Whenever anything really bad happens around Korean people, that is when I would like to hide, go to Hawaii and eat spam sushi until it blows over. I don’t want to comment on it because I don't want to escalate the situation and I don't want to implicate myself in it. I don't want to 'come out' as Asian because therein lies a tremendous responsibility that I never volunteered for, that I don't have any real control over, and that is as mysterious to me as it is to someone who isn't Asian.

So here is the whole terrible mess of the shootings at Virginia Tech. I look at the shooter's expressionless face on the news and he looks so familiar, like he could be in my family. Just another one of us. But how can he be us when what he has done is so terrible? Here is where I can really envy white people because when white people do something that is inexplicably awful, so brutally and horribly wrong, nobody says – “do you think it is because he is white?” There are no headlines calling him the “White shooter." There is no mention of race because there is no thought in anyone's mind that his race had anything to do with his crime.

So much attention is focused on the Asian-ness of the shooter, how the Korean community is reacting to it, South Korea's careful condolences and cautiously expressed fear that it will somehow impact the South Korean population at large.

What is lost here is the grief. What is lost is the great, looming sadness that we should all feel over this. We lose our humanity to racism, time and time again.

I extend my deepest sympathies to all those who lost their loved ones, their children, their friends and family, in this unimaginable tragedy. I send them all the love I have in me, and I encourage everyone to do the same.

On the Imus Controversy and Hip Hop Music

Are You a Hip Hop Apologist?
by Paris

Since the Imus controversy recently erupted there has been a lot of finger-pointing and blame-placing as to what the root of the problem really is. Of course, we all know that racism and sexism existed before hip-hop -- that's a given. But it's completely beside the point when our (black) culture is dictated to us by white corporations. Follow me...

For the record, most folks in our communities didn't even know Don Imus before he made headlines with his slurs (and many still don't). For the most part, we remain oblivious to his tirades and those of Bill O'Reilly, Sean Hannity and others who constantly malign us and foster a climate of intolerance simply because these talking heads don't speak to US. For Imus to blame black culture as the reason for his ignorance is both sad and backwards. He's a racist and a sexist, pure and simple. And he can't blame an art form or a culture, that I'm certain he has little knowledge of, for his actions. However, the fact that he named hip-hop "culture" as a culprit is telling.

If you haven't noticed by now, life imitates art -- it's not the other way around. There is no stronger cultural influence on people now than popular media, and hip-hop is at the forefront. Ask almost any child about the lyrics to a popular song or a scene from a video or movie and more often then not they will know the details better than they know their school lessons. Entertainers and the culture of celebrity that we find ourselves living in often hold more weight with kids then parents, educators, preachers, politicians or even sports heroes. Can we blame some rappers for selling out completely? Of course. But we have to look at the entire picture.

The argument is often made by Russell Simmons and others that rappers are poets who simply report on what we feel and our surroundings, and that we shouldn't be censored. On that point we partially agree -- we shouldn't be censored. But balance between the negative and positive needs to be provided, and it currently isn't. Most artistic integrity is questionable at best. My understanding is that artists are supposed to express what they believe in at all costs (if not, there's work at the post office). But most don't, and they mold their approaches to making music based on what they perceive major labels want. If Def Jam or Interscope or any of these other large culture-defining companies issued a blanket decree that they would only support material and artists with positive messages, 99% of those making music now would switch up to accommodate. That's real talk. I'm not saying these labels should (or would), but if they did, gangstas would stop being gangstas and misogynists would stop being misogynists at the drop of a DIME.

Many artists are like children, and most will say and do what is expected of them in order to benefit financially. And although there is definite self-examination that needs to take place within the artist community, the lion's share of the blame falls on the enablers who only empower voices of negativity. Record labels and commercial radio often use the excuse that they are "responding to the streets" and that they are "giving the people what they want." BULLSH_T. They dictate the taste of the streets, and people can't miss what they never knew. The fact is that there are conscious decisions made by the big business and entertainment elite daily about what to present to the masses -- and it is from those choices that we are allowed to decide what we do and do not like. Who presents the music that callers are invited to "make or break" on the radio? That callers are invited to "vote on" on T.V.? Who decides on what makes it to the store shelves or the airwaves at all? Like I said, life imitates art, and pseudo-black culture is determined by those other than us every day. Walk into any rap label or urban radio station and you can count the number of black employees on one hand.

What I want to know is, when did the worst in us become normal and accepted? When did it become par for the corporate course that "black man as thug" and "black woman as slut" be business as usual? Major companies now line up to profit from the buffoonery of a few...at the expense of us all. MTV, Viacom, Clear Channel, Boost Mobile, Amp mobile, Chevy, all major record labels and most video games come readily to mind, but there are many others.

I'm not a hater...although I do hate the imbalance in the industry right now and the negativity it fosters. I'm not calling for censorship. You can't lump me in with the Jesse Lee Petersons and the Armstrong Williamses of the world...bourgeois self-hating black men who demean other black people and profit at our expense. And nobody can say that I'm unqualified to speak on it, since I've contributed to the sale of just under 4 million albums independently, still run my own successful counter-establishment label (www.guerrillafunk.com) and have been embracing messages of self-esteem and self-sufficiency for years.

Like I said, I'm not calling for censorship, but I am calling for balance. I'm calling for more representation of points of view other than gangsta rap and escapism. More revolutionary voices. More voices of women. Where is the diversity? [Why don't we here more] Public Enemy (they'll take the Flav, but not the Chuck), Kam, X-Clan, BDP, Wise Intelligent, Dead Prez, Zion-I, Mos Def, Talib Kweli , The Roots, Blackalicious, Immortal Technique, The Coup, T-K.A.S.H., Michael Franti and a host of others [on the air]?

So how many half-naked women sipping Cris draped in blood diamonds poolside will it take before we collectively agree that sh_t is tired now? How many backward-@ss coons with tats and plated grills and pimp cups etc. in the strip club before we all agree that enough is enough and that we need balance? When did the bar get set so low? When will we demand more? And as for Simmons' argument that "rappers are reporting what they see" etc, how are cocaine-kingpin rhymes or poolside pimp-n_gga fantasies anyone's reality? Miss me with that bullsh_t argument. Yes, there should be room for all voices to be heard, but we have to be treated and presented equally. Now we have b_tches and hos, players and pimps, gangstas and dealers -- but no kings and queens, no revolutionaries, no dissent, no political commentary and no anger -- how is that? In an era where EVERYTHING is political and people are more disgusted with the way things are more than ever? It's no mistake. Yes! I can say that we have failed, that we have allowed black culture to once again be co-opted, diluted and prostituted. Commercial rap culture is now to hip-hop what disco was to funk. No wonder Nas is saying it's dead.

And who's to blame? Definitely not artists like the ones mentioned above. Not most artists at all, actually, because we don't control whether or not we're seen and heard by the masses. No, the blame needs to squarely sit on the shoulders of those who run the labels, the commercial radio stations, the television studios and the large corporate sponsors who reward only the worst in us and seem hell-bent on pursuing (with little success) the most fleeting, fickle demographic of all -- 12-16 year old adolescent females. You know, the demo that's the most impressionable, with the least amount of loyalty or disposable income. Brilliant.

Know that it's okay to call sh_t like it is and quit being cowards worrying about who we'll offend. It's okay to blame Simmons, Lyor Cohen, Jimmy Iovine, Kevin Liles, Bob Johnson, Debra Lee, Michael Martin and others of their ilk because the blood is on their hands. They are the gatekeepers of popular culture and they are the ones who determine what you see and hear. They can't say that their decisions are based on economics when they exclude voices of reason because there are literally hundreds of millions of people globally who feel the same way. What about that consumer base? I guess that money is no good, huh? Get the f_ck outta here... Remember, part of the strategy of mind control is to fool the public into thinking that they have choice. We do, but the playing field is so skewed in the favor of mega-corporations that the contributions of the alternatives are often viewed by most as insignificant.

So yes, there is a problem, but the fake "Kumbaya" moment on Oprah yesterday won't solve it. Are we really going to look to those individuals who have made a killing off of pushing poison to us to fix the problem? We shouldn't. Instead, we should vote with our dollars and continue the campaign of public shame until we see some concrete change. The music industry as we know it is on its death bed. People are now more tired than ever of 'music business as usual' and style over substance.

Imus was an insignificant part of a much greater problem. Sure, his incident opened up national discourse regarding issues of race and sex. And yes, it is now more apparent than ever that whites have a hard time acknowledging racist and sexist behavior in other whites as being solely their fault. Most black artists are not to blame, as we often can't be seen or heard without white help. But it's important to note that many of us can and should know better when saying and doing the things we say and do. It's easy to despise the indefensible, and media outlets like Fox News have made good money demonizing those with little real power.

But will we champion the good among us?

Paris is a successful independent hip-hop artist and founder of Guerrilla Funk Recordings, a musical organization that counters the corporate stranglehold of censorship currently plaguing the entertainment industry. Visit Guerrilla Funk

I've been down with Paris since his 1990 release of The Devil Made Me Do It. Check "What Would You Do" and "Evil" from Sonic Jihad for examples of what conscious hip hop music sounds like.

The Best Super Bowl Ever!



Congrats to Tony Dungy and the Indianapolis Colts! Perhaps I was just overly giddy to be witnessing history in the making, but I thought Super Bowl XLI was the best Super Bowl EVER! I was rooting for Dungy and Manning to finally pull it off, but for the first time in years, I would have been just as happy if the other team (Lovie Smith and The Bears) won.



AND Prince performed at half time?! With FAMU, no less! It was well worth waking up at 8am to watch!



Despite the fact that 67% of NFL players are African American, only six of the NFL's 32 head coaches are Black. And of those six, two of them ended up going head to head in the Super Bowl. You gotta love it!

But you gotta hate how brothers have been getting dissed for so long. Perhaps things will finally change. Maybe Dungy's success will have us seeing more African American head coaches next year.

In 2002 a group headed by high-powered civil rights attorneys Johnnie Cochran and Cyrus Mehri released a report titled, "Black Coaches in the NFL: Superior Performance, Inferior Opportunities," which uses statistical data to argue that the league has regressed in efforts to hire more black head coaches — while those hired perform better than white counterparts and are dismissed faster.

From a January 2006 MSNBC report:
It’s been nearly 3½ years since Mehri and the late Johnnie Cochran released a landmark report that criticized NFL hiring practices and prompted the league to create the “Rooney Rule,” which requires teams to interview at least one minority candidate when searching for a new head coach.

Since then, the number of black head coaches has increased from two to six in the 32-team league, and more blacks are working in NFL front offices. Still, much more progress was expected this year because of the unusually high number of vacancies.

“If you look at the list (of the 9 white coaches hired) and compare it to (the list of African Americans who were interviewed but not hired), you’ll see that the black coaching candidates were at least as strong, if not stronger, than those who were selected,” Mehri said.

“Each team could say what their justifications were, but if you look at it collectively, it still shows that there’s an uphill battle for African-American coaches.”

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

My First Tattoo – Bangkok, Thailand (12.3.06)

“If you could be an animal (other than a human being), what animal would you be, and why?” was the questioned asked at a few of the leadership training workshops I attended during and shortly after college.

I liked the question and the thought process it evoked, but I always found myself frustrated trying to decide between a big cat (like a black panther or lion) and a bird.

My family had both cats and dogs during most of my childhood, but I always found myself identifying more with the cats and their feline sense of pride than with the dogs. I liked that they were self-sufficient and independent (“Oh, you don’t want to change my kitty litter? No problem, I’ll just shred this telephone book, and…voila!”). I also admired their grace and agility, and appreciated the fact that they didn’t come when you called them, but came of their own volition, often when most needed. Whenever I had the blues and needed a little affection, it wouldn’t be long before there was a cat purring on my chest and nuzzling my chin with its head. The warmth and sincerity of their affection was always comforting.

I imagine my affinity for cats may also have had something to do with learning about how Egyptian priests regarded them as the symbolic forces of nature and kept them around for “the astral fires emanating from them.”

And who doesn’t want to be able to fly?

Finally, during a Team Leader training workshop for AmeriCorps-NCCC in 1995, a facilitator rephrased the question, asking “If you could be any animal in the universe, real or imaginary, which animal would you be, and why?” That was the precise moment at which the answer clicked immediately: I’d be a winged lion!



My winged lion represents African heritage, leadership, family and alchemy.

I started growing dreadlocks when I was 9 years old. We had recently moved from Brooklyn, New York to Charleston, South Carolina, and I had just learned a valuable lesson in Kujichagulia (Self-Determination). I was taking pride in my African name and heritage, and my dreadlocks were a visible manifestation of those internal convictions. This was 1981: long before dreadlocks became fashionable or adorned the heads of minstrel clowns like Lil John.

Ever since I cut off my dreadlocks under duress back in 1993, I’ve thought about reincarnating them in one form or another. My lion’s mane not only represents my lost dreadlocks, but also a connection to, and an appreciation for, the culture of resistance, upliftment and self-determination celebrated by reggae music and its two biggest luminaries: The Conquering Lion of Judah, Emperor Haile Selassie I, who, with an undersized army, became the first African ruler to successfully repel an invading European force; and Robert Nesta Marley, the prophet who’s conscious lyrics inspire millions.

The mane also represents the light, truth and regenerative powers of the sun. Just as the sun’s life giving rays warm the ground encouraging seed pods to release the power and wisdom within themselves and grow to their fullest potential, so do I, as an educator, hope to spark the fires of my students’ educational processes.

Young male lions are independent until they're ready for the responsibility of a pride. Once they've matured, they're always leading a pride. The pride spends most of its time lounging and enjoying life, but it works as a team to accomplish what it must when it has to.

Lions are strong and powerful, yet agile, graceful and inconspicuous when necessary. As the “kings of the jungle”, they also represent valor, leadership and nobility. I love how efficient they are. They waste no energy.

They remind me of lazy Sunday afternoons. The kind where you wake up without an alarm and no real plans for the day. You just do whatever’s most natural-make love, have brunch, play with the kids and nap.

When it’s time to eat, the family rallies and works as a team to get the job done. Every lion fills its belly and they all go back to lounging and enjoying life. I admire that “work hard - play hard” work ethic.

The wings not only give the lion freedom to travel farther and faster than land-bound animals, they also give it the advantage to rise above situations to gain clarity offered from perspectives of the bigger picture - a valuable asset for good leadership. As others can be “taken under its wings”, the wings also represent the guidance and protection of compassionate leadership.

Alchemy is the art and science of combining common elements to produce extraordinary manifestations. It involves magic and faith, and it initiates transformation and ascension. The lion is grounded in the physical, tangible plane. The winged lion flies in the sky. There is a spiritual symbolism in the winged lion in that the wings represent aspirations and allow it to reach higher heights, to search for enlightenment and cultivate a relationship with God.

Ultimately, the winged lion hopes to be an alchemist working for the good of humanity to transform anger, greed, and ignorance into love, unity and, prosperity for all.



Now, about the actual tattoo. I had been thinking of it for about 10 years. Ever since I had the epiphany, I envisioned having the image of a winged lion tattooed on my arm. I started designing it in ’96, but never really finished it because I thought I’d have a tattoo artist finish it for me.

I just couldn't justify spending more than $300 on a tattoo. Sure, it's a piece of art that will be on me forever, so I shouldn't want to be cheap about it, but $300 is a plane ticket to foreign countries! And that was just the price quoted for a smaller version of the lion's body, NOT including the wings! So if $300 was too much, you know I wasn't going to pay more than $500 for a tattoo. I could travel for a month on $500!

I turned 35 this year, and I decided that it's a landmark year worth commemorating, and that if I didn't get it this year, I probably never would. I heard about good artists and reasonable prices in Thailand. So I resolved to have a Thai artist finish my design and get the tattoo done there.

I took the concept to 7 or 8 parlors in Bangkok and asked them to work on the wings and face for me. I was disappointed to find that they didn’t take me seriously, and produced mediocre designs focusing on one aspect or the other, but never on both. So I pulled an all-nighter to finish the design myself 2 days before I caught my flight back to Korea.

If I had another day or 2 to work on it, I would have done a few things a little differently, but I am VERY happy with it, and proud of the fact that it is completely MY own original design (on the wall behind my head). I also like the fact that I can say I got it in Thailand, and recall all of the beautiful memories from that awesome 6-week vacation.

All said and done, it cost me $230 and took 7 hours to complete.

Friday, December 08, 2006

Angkor Wat – Siem Reap, Cambodia (11.17.07 – 11.21.06)


Wedding Party crossing the causeway from Angor Wat - Cambodia Posted by Picasa


Passing through the central gate to Angkor Wat Posted by Picasa


Buddhist monks inside one of the other gates Posted by Picasa


Entrance to the central temple complex - Angkor Wat, Cambodia Posted by Picasa


One of the smaller peaks surrounding the central peak representing the Hindu's mythical Mt. Meru


Buddhist monks in the central temple complex Posted by Picasa


The South Gate of Angkor Thom, the fortified city surrounded by a 12 kilometer wall which is "6 meters high and 8 meter wide every step of the way." -Lonely Planet


From afar, my favorite site, Bayon Temple looks like piles of rubble (photo courtesy of Alex Noy)... Posted by Picasa

...but how many faces do you see now?

for scale


Two of 216 gargantuan faces watching over visitors in Bayon Temple Posted by Picasa


Close-Up of Avalokiteshvara, Bayon Temple - Angkor Wat, Cambodia Posted by Picasa


Ta Som - Angkor Wat, Cambodia Posted by Picasa


One of the MANY children selling souvenirs (I bought "Ten postcards, one dollar, Mister.") Posted by Picasa


My favorite child vendor (I bought a couple of her scarves)


Friendly Kid – one of very few kids NOT selling something Posted by Picasa

Thursday, December 07, 2006

Krabi, Thailand (11.9.06 - 11.14.06)

As soon as I have more time I'll do a write up on how Corey finally got me into rock climbing. In the mean time, here are a few of the photos:


En route to Krabi (Man, I wish I had a better camera!) Posted by Picasa


The view from Tonsai Beach - Krabi, Thailand Posted by Picasa


...So...you think I can climb that? Posted by Picasa


Corey offering pointers Posted by Picasa




Almost there Posted by Picasa


Sunset from Tonsai Beach - Krabi, Thailand Posted by Picasa

Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand (10.31.06 - 11.8.06)


Buckets of Joy! = Thai whiskey, Coke, Red Bull, etc. served in beach buckets Posted by Picasa


Apprentice - 9-year-old fire dancer a few nights before the full moon party Posted by Picasa


Fire Dancer - Full Moon Party, Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand Posted by Picasa


The Full Moon Party crowd at 7AM the following morning Posted by Picasa


Crowd slowly dispersing at 9AM the morning after the party. Posted by Picasa

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Photos of people with 3-foot skewers piercing their cheeks coming soon.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

The Similan Islands, Thailand (10.26.06 - 10.28.06)

"Did you see the sharks?" asked Sue, Steve's wife?

I have no interest in seeing Great White Sharks, Bull Sharks or anything else that can eat me while I’m scuba diving, but since the sharks in question were harmless little reef sharks (Black Tips, White Tips and Leopards), my reply was a disappointed, “No.”

That was after one of the first dives during a 3-day trip to Thailand’s Similan Islands, one of the top 10 dive destinations in the world. And truth be told, I was only slightly disappointed because the rest of the wildlife and coral were abundant and incredibly impressive!

The visibility was good, and by time I came up from my 10th dive, the only things I hadn’t seen were whale sharks and manta rays (it’s the wrong season for such spottings). Bat Fish, Barracuda, Trumpet Fish, Stone Fish, schools of Fusiliers, giant clams, sharks, etc – The Similans are teeming with life! There was a smorgasbord of colors and activity to keep me in awe of Mother Nature.

I did my 50th dive on this trip, and the Similans have trumped The Great Barrier Reef, Belize, Honduras, and The Galapagos Islands to become my favorite site. I think I was being dazzled by the abundant life and explosions of color in and around the football field sized coral gardens at the site, East of Eden when I had the revelation. I remember smiling as I thought to myself, “I’m diving in Thailand!” and pictured myself swimming through one of the National Geographic articles that fascinated me as a kid.

Photos are courtesy of Harry, my cool German Dive Master. He took some great shots, but trust me when I say these photos do NOT do the sights justice.


Dive Boat Posted by Picasa


Ready Posted by Picasa


Descending into "Le Grand Bleu." Posted by Picasa


greeted by schooling fish Posted by Picasa


Blue Spotted Ray Posted by Picasa


Octopi are so intriguing, I could spend an entire 50 minute dive spellbound by an octopus’s movements & camouflage techniques. Posted by Picasa

But the rest of the group wanted to see tiny reef fish, families of clown fish protecting their anemones, moray eels and a plethora of other wildlife we didn’t capture on film.








Pop quiz: Angel Fish, Lion Fish or Scorpion Fish? Posted by Picasa

Vacation! - Thailand, Cambodia & Laos (10.21.06 - 12.3.06)


I LOVE Thai food! Posted by Picasa


...Well, most of it. Can't say I'm into the deep fried larvae or grasshoppers. Posted by Picasa


...or the deep fried cockroaches for that matter. Posted by Picasa

Saturday, October 21, 2006

I'm Staying in Korea for 1 More Year

Yes, I know I’ve done a poor job of keeping my blog updated, but we just finished another “busy season” at the end of August. Busy season is the time during which I am away from my apartment from 9am until 8pm, Monday through Friday.

I teach at a hagwon which is not actually a school, but an English academy that kids attend AFTER school. I thought Korean parents were crazy for making their kids attend academies for 3-6 hours after spending 8hours in school during the school year. What’s worse is that during the kids “summer vacation” they are actually enrolled in ADDITIONAL hagwons! ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?

I was at the school 11 hours a day during the month of August because parents enrolled their kids for extra classes for the month. The kids are actually happy when summer vacation is over because they have fewer academies to attend, and LESS HOMEWORK DURING THE SCHOOL YEAR THAN DURING SUMMER VACATION! WHAT?!?!?


One of the Older Classes - Seoul Language Institute, Ilsan Posted by Picasa


A (little) Less Reserved Class - SLI, Ilsan Posted by Picasa

All said and done, these kids get 2.5 months of vacation a year. It’s sad that they spend 2 months of it in academies (English, math, social studies, Korean, science, etc.). Instead of enjoying what should be a break from school, Korean kids spend their vacations worrying about the mountain of “vacation homework” they have to complete before school starts again.


One of the Happy Classes, SLI, Ilsan Posted by Picasa

Anyway, instead of the 5 hour days I’m accustomed to, I was at the academy from 9am until 8pm, 5 days a week. There were breaks, so I only taught 8 or 9 hours a day, but the early mornings meant that by time I had finished dinner with friends or coworkers, I was exhausted, and could do nothing but sleep when I got home. As far as I’m concerned, collecting overtime pay is the only benefit to busy season.

And OF COURSE I was offline during the world cup! Because of the time difference, the games were broadcasted live in Korea in the middle of the night (e.g. 10pm, midnight, 2am, 4am, etc). So when I didn't have to get up for Korean classes, I usually ended up sleeping the days away until I had to go to work.

Aside from studying Korean, I did NO work (i.e. writing) in June or July. My expat team is full of foreigners from England, Switzerland, the US, Morocco, etc. I also play with an Argentinean and Koreans, so there was a reason to watch nearly every game. I was up all night most nights. It was a good time despite the fact that Korea, the US, and most of the African teams never made it out of the first round, AND despite the fact that the drama queens from Italy won (see the video and commentary below for more info).

I’ve spent most of my computer time digging myself out from under the 300+ emails that accumulated during my hiatus, and planning my trip to Southeast Asia

And for current news… (drum roll please)

THE DECISION IS IN: AZIKIWE WILL EXTEND HIS STAY IN KOREA FOR ANOTHER YEAR!

Just before the World Cup began, I evaluated my progress towards my artistic and financial goals. In doing so I realized that my progress was unsatisfactory, and that the only way I could reach my goals would be through severe discipline (read isolation and NO socializing). Now that was the original plan. I was to come here and be a hermit. I wasn't thinking about coming here and trying to make friends or socialize much. I intended to save all of my money, and spend all of my time writing the book whenever I wasn't at work.

In March, I was complaining to yet another friend about how closed off this society is when I realized that part of the problem could be that my Korean communication skills were still nonexistent. Furthermore, I realized I could NOT live here for a year and leave without being able to speak the language. So I enrolled in Korean language classes. The classes were great for establishing a foundation, but after a few months I realized that the only way I could maximize progress was to spend more time with Koreans. Of course the more time I spend studying Korean and socializing with Koreans, the less time I spend on the computer. Add to the mix that I also don't want to kick my expat friends to the curb, and all of a sudden, my social calendar is always packed with engagements. There's no time for book writing, nor was I saving any money. But I'm not worried about it! At least my debt is under control and dwindling.

I finally just gave into it all! After taking stock of my progress toward saving money and finishing the book, I decided I need more time. My contract ended on December 20th. On December 21st I began a 6-week vacation in SE Asia. I’ll be back in Korea on December 3rd to teach for 1 more year.

Korea has grown on me… and tacking on another year means I’ll have a much more focused 2nd year. I'm reminded that my Peace Corps recruiter told me that 2 years were necessary because it takes a year to get acclimated, and that it's during the second year that the most progress is made. I found this to be true of my Peace Corps experience, and I expect it to be true of my personal goals in Korea as well.

I was hoping to spend 2-3 months traveling, but my hagwon’s giving me a raise, and since it is one of the best deals I know of (other teachers have to be at work 8 hours a day, work Saturdays, and have shabby apartments), and keeping my apartment means I don’t have to worry about moving and storing my stuff, I decided to re-sign with them rather than look for a new gig. So… 6 weeks will have to do.

I’ll snowboard through the weekends of December and January, but I intend to become a hermit after January’s busy season. Book writing will be THE primary goal. Traveling has always been good to get my creative juices flowing, so I expect to come back to Korea with a full head of steam ready to finish the book.


My Apartment Building, Ilsan Posted by Picasa

South Korean Nationalism


Anthony, Wade & Crew: USA vs. Korea - 8.15.06 Posted by Picasa

My soccer teammate and good friend, Mike Clayton hipped me to the Korea vs. US basketball game on August 15th. I enjoyed watching LeBron James, Dwayne Wade, Carmelo Anthony and the rest of the squad do their thing, but I was really impressed (and slightly amused) by Korean nationalism.

The US had a significant lead by the second quarter. The final score was 116 to 63. At no point after the second quarter was Korea within 27 points of the US, yet Korean pride is so strong that the score didn’t really matter. Every time a Korean scored, the arena erupted with cheers as if a Korean player had just slam dunked the gaming winning point!

It finally made sense why I was unable to watch a few World Cup games at my favorite venues.

If you scroll down, you’ll see a photo of the massive crowd gathered at Seoul’s City Hall to watch Korea’s first 2006 game against Togo. I thought Koreans were crazy for the World Cup. Turns out they’re just crazy for Korea in the World Cup.

An hour before kick off for the Korea vs. Togo game I was turned away from restaurants and a bar I used visit once a week. They told me I should have made a reservation. Every place in Ilsan was PACKED with Koreans in their national jersey cheering, “Daehanminguk!”

The crowds grew with every game Korea played. Trying to get to City Hall for the Korea vs. France game meant squeezing through a crowd that had gathered hours before the match, and was already shoulder to shoulder 4 blocks away from City Hall.

Everything changed as soon as Korea was kicked out of the Cup.

The same places that told me I needed a reservation to watch the Korea games were like, “What, there’s a game tonight? Really? Who? What time? Oh no, you can watch the first half, but we’ll be closing at 2.” when I went back to watch matches after Korea was no longer in the tournament. It was frustrating, but funny at the same time.

All said and done, at least it’s not the kind of nationalism that leads to brutality against foreigners…

Friday, October 06, 2006

Chuseok and Family (10.5.06)


FAMILY - Vahid, Camille, Adalia, Iyabo, Magdala & Stephanie Posted by Picasa

According to Monk Sun Jae, a professor at Dongguk University here in Korea, "The origin of Chuseok is traced back to the Shilla Kingdom. On the occasion of the full moon of August in the lunar calendar, people held a festival to celebrate that year's harvest. Singing and dancing the night away, people enjoyed the foods prepared by each other. Chuseok is a warmhearted tradition of our ancestors."

Present-day Koreans celebrate Chuseok much in the same way as Thanksgiving, Christmas and Kwanzaa are celebrated in the US. There isn’t the emphasis on turkeys, commercialism, or the Nguzo Saba, but 90% of the country heads home to feast and be with family.

Like Koreans during this time of year, I found myself giving thanks for family and friends yesterday too. I’m grateful for the many connections I’ve made with people here in Korea, but yesterday I found myself counting blessings because I was with family.

Stephanie is the sister of my dear friend Cynthia’s friend, Crystal. I met Cynthia when I was in Peace Corps in Nicaragua and she and her boyfriend were traveling through Central America back in ’99. I’ve never met Crystal, and even though I haven’t seen Cynthia since I moved away from DC in ’03, we’re always in touch.

Iyabo is the daughter of friends of Mama Shukuru, a friend of my parents’ from their days at The East in Brooklyn in the early 70’s. I met Mama Shukuru once when I was in San Francisco for a wedding in 2002, but I’ve never met Iyabo’s family.

I have very few friends on My Space, but what I love about my real network of friends and family is how we are always trying to put people in touch with one another. Cynthia sent me an email several months ago saying Stephanie was in Korea, and that I should get in touch with her. I received an email from Stephanie shortly after we met, saying that she met Iyabo (whom I hadn’t met yet), through her friend, Camille. I met Adalia and Vahid when we all got together at Everest (excellent Nepalese food!) to celebrate Iyabo’s birthday shortly thereafter. Adalia suggested we get together for a Soul Food night during Chuseok. I invited Magdala to join us shortly after meeting her at a restaurant I was in for another friend’s birthday party.

Over a delicious karamu (feast) of collard greens, fruit salad and a noodle dish prepared by Camille; garlic mashed potatoes, rice and lemonade prepared by Adalia; an eggplant dish from Iyabo’s native Guyana; and fried chicken prepared by Ellis, we had our own Chuseok celebration. I wish I had an oven and pie shells so I could have contributed sweet potato pie to the meal, but in the midst of such abundant blessings I could not focus on any negativity. I found myself personally giving thanks for the distant family who made it possible for this family to assemble here in Korea.

It was such a beautiful night we found ourselves planning to make it a monthly event. Thank You, Kahmsahmnida, Asante Sana, Gracias, Grazie, and Merci Beaucoup to all of my family, both here and abroad. I love you.

Peace&Blessings,
Azikiwe

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Anthony Hamilton Live in Korea! (9.27.06)


Anthony Hamilton - Yongsan Military Base, Korea Posted by Picasa

Still lovin life and feeling blessed, y'all! I got to see Anthony Hamilton live right here in Korea! And it was an excellent show!

Anthony Hamilton has been one of my favorite artists since the first time I heard Comin' From Where I'm From. Like India Arie and Kindred The Family Soul, I will buy ANYTHING they produce as soon as it goes on sell because I know it will be real and positive.

Here's what I love about the brother: He had the women in the audience swooning as he crooned the lyrics to Float. High school age girls were still screaming his name as he concluded the song. While other performers might have invited the girls on stage for a booty shaking contest, this is the point at which he said, "See, they're listening. We need to talk to them when they're listening. Young ladies, make sure you hold on to your special things. Don't let these lil' fast boys talk you into giving your special things away. Remember, you're special..."

The brother writes and sings songs from the heart, and he is a responsible artist who recognizes and uses the power of music to educate, encourage and uplift. His music is edutainment, music with soul and consciousness.

Most of his band has been with him from the beginning, and his wife, one of the back-up singers was introduced to him by another back-up singer who’s been with him from the beginning. That’s loyalty and family… and it shines through in their music!

I attended the last of 3 free shows he did for US military personnel stationed in Korea. I gotta thank my friend, Jeryl, as well as her friends, Sherry and Terry for getting me on base to experience the show. I also have to thank my coworker and friend, Dave for covering one of my classes so I could make the midweek show. Finally, I gotta thank the man himself, Anthony Hamilton for truly Keeping It Real! Brother got off stage to dance with the sisters during Sista Big Bones, y'all! AND he stayed for well over an hour after the show to autograph posters for everyone who wanted one!

Wednesday, October 04, 2006

Roots Vibe Party - Club DGBD, Seoul (9.9.06)


Windy City at their studio with Gold Tea & DJ Seafran Posted by Picasa

It was an excellent night!

Up until this night, I had been frustrated with clubs starting concerts at 8pm and ending the show before they had a crowd to appreciate the music. I worked hard to get the word out for this concert because I didn't want the organizers to get the impression that Korea's still not ready for reggae. I got a nice crowd of foreigners to come out, but of course most of them showed up around 10:30 (still early by western standards). By Korean standards they had missed most of the show. Usually the late comers would be SOL (out of luck). But my man, Ban-Jang, the leader of Windy City, would have none of it that night!

The show should have ended shortly after 11pm with a collaboration piece featuring the last three acts. But Ban-Jang saw the crowd still feeling the vibes and asked, "Do you want some more?!"

The amped crowd yelled back, "YEAH!!!" And with that Windy City played on for another hour and a half to the crowd's amazement and delight!

All of the performances were solid, but I am most grateful for Windy City, Gold Tea, Shadow and DJ Sea Fran for keeping the party going!

One of Windy City's reggae tunes is finally in a video format that I could upload. Loosely translated, tha title is "This Crazy World". Amoung other things, they speak against the invasion of Iraq. Cool People + Positive Vibes = Beautifully Conscious Music. I love the cats! Check 'em out:

Friday, September 08, 2006

REGGAE LOVERS IN KOREA NEED FRET NO MORE!!!

Club DGBD is the place to be THIS Saturday, September 9th!

What: “Roots Vibes Party”

When: 7pm until early morning, September 9, 2006

Where: Club DGBD, Hongdae - mapogu seo gyo dong 395-17 (next to Bar
Home, across from the Family Mart near Qvo & M2 in Hongdae)

Cost: 15,000 won (1 free drink included)

Why: To prove that Korea is ready for reggae on the regular! This is DGBD’s grand event to kick off what should become a monthly reggae night. Hopefully the reggae loving crowd will come out to show them that Korea is definitely ready for reggae.

WHO:

WINDY CITY, Korea’s own award winning funky reggae band!

Windy City Posted by Picasa

KINGSTON RUDIE SKA, Korea’s baddest (most awesome) reggae ska band!

Kingston Rudie Ska Posted by Picasa

SU YEOUM KONG HWA GOOK! up and coming Korean reggae band

Su Yeom Kong Hwa Gook Posted by Picasa

MC GOLD TEA, Jamaican Dancehall style MC live on the mic!

MC Gold Tea Posted by Picasa

DJ SEAFRAN, the dreadlocked Frenchman - Korea’s #1 reggae DJ, spinning everything from Junior Kelly and Tanya Stevens to Jacob Miller and heavy dub!

DJ Seafran (photo courtesy of www.PaulKotyk.com) Posted by Picasa

This is the vanguard of the Korean reggae movement! Three smokin’ bands performing their original music live! The toughest dancehall MC in Korea delivering conscious lyrics live! And the most talented reggae DJ/producer in Korea spinning roots and culture all night long! These are the heavyweights, the “Who’s Who” of reggae in Korea! And they’re all under one roof, on the same night! There will be collaborations galore, and irie vibes felt by all! This is the show you will NOT want to miss!


"Love, Power & Unity" collaborations - DJ Seafran, MC Gold Tea & Shadow with Windy City Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Love, Power and Unity! - I Love Windy City!

Windy City - Love Supreme (MV PV)

I'll be writing updates about basketball and reggae on Independence Day, and a day in the life of "Intensives" soon, in the mean time I wanted to share a video of my favorite Korean band. Their live performance is an irie affair full of reggae and funk. This video doesn't do them full justice in capturing their creativity, conscious lyrics or beautiful energy. As soon as I find one of their reggae videos, you'll see it here. I love Windy City!

Friday, August 04, 2006

The USA Wins the Mini World Cup!!! (7.30.06)


Team USA - 2006 Seoul Mini World Cup Champions! Posted by Picasa

With an election stealing, military service dodging, warmongering president who is responsible for turning our country’s largest surplus into its biggest deficit, while eliminating health care for the poor and causing unemployment rates to skyrocket to the highest rates ever, AND causing the unnecessary deaths of 100’s of thousands of US Americans, Iraqis and Afghanis through unjust wars, I am not your typical flag-waving US American.

Yes, it seems that the US government values profit and money more than human life. Nonetheless, I love my country for the lofty ideals on which it was founded and the potential it has to become a true democracy. The fact that the founding fathers wrote “All men are created equal,” while owning slaves illustrates that they were hypocrites. Still, the possibility exists for US citizens to make US government more responsible. I have chosen to live outside of the country while it is being run by a fraudulent president whose corporate-run militaristic government is bent on empire expansion. I don’t want to contribute to an economy which values war profiteering more than global human welfare. I’ll go back when I no longer have to shake my head in disapproval at the mention of the US president… Nope, I’m not usually the proud US American.

But I was a proud US American Sunday night! Team USA emerged as the champions of the Mini World Cup held here in Korea!

There are tons of soccer playing expats from all over the world who play soccer in the Super Sunday Football League here in Seoul. Most of the 15 teams in the league are made up of players from various countries. Last Sunday we left our league teams to play for national pride. There were 10 teams vying for the trophy: 2 teams from Korea, 1 from Malaysia, 1 representing Mongolia, 1 from the Ivory Coast, a Latino team (mostly Central and South Americans), a Common Wealth team (mostly Canadians and Brits), a French team, a USA team, and a “The Rest of the World” team. In the end, it was the rag-tag team of scrappy US players who outplayed teams who had uniforms made for the occasion.

My Korean expat team, Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club was well represented on the US side, which was the only team to finish the tournament undefeated! Sean Nix, of Loko, scored 2 goals in the USA's drive toward the final. And the defense, anchored by Loko's MVP defender, yours truly playing sweeper, held opposing teams to 2 goals in 6 games.

The Mini World Cup was a 1-day tournament which took place from 9:30am to 9:30pm on the training pitches near Suwon World Cup Stadium on a very hot and humid day (90 degrees, 80% humidity?). We won hard fought games over Malaysia, France and the Latin Lovers, and tied one of the Korea teams in the first round. But I was truly most proud of the squad as we overcame dehydration and cramps to defeat the Common Wealth and France in the semi-final and final, respectively.

In a time during which it is easy to “hate” the US it was cool to hear spectators chanting “U-S-A!” during the championship game. They weren’t US citizens cheering for us. They were players who had participated in the tournament, and were applauding our grit and determination.

People can talk all the smack they want about the US not being a soccer power, but the international soccer heads in South Korea have to give props to the US expats who are the undisputed champions of the July 30, 2006 Mini World Cup in Seoul!

Other highlights of the tournament included 1.) a spectacular play which ended with Aisha, 1 of 2 women in the tournament, scoring a header for the Common Wealth from a chipped heel pass inside the box, and 2.) hearing the crowd boo and jeer a player for diving inside the box.

Don’t Believe The Hype!



I wonder why more people know about Mel Gibson’s drunken tirade than these statistics?

FYI, as of July 28th, this is a brief score card to keep in mind the next time the media tries to make you believe that “Israel’s response has been measured”. Keep in mind that these statistics were compiled before Israel bombed a shelter, killing 37 children and 12 women.

The Mounting Toll:
* Number of Lebanese people killed in the two-week conflict: 422, of whom 375 were civilians.
* A further 27 Hezbollah guerrillas have been killed and 20 Lebanese soldiers.
* Number of Israeli dead since the conflict began: 42, of whom 18 were civilians and 24 soldiers.
* Number of Palestinians killed by Israel in the Gaza Strip since the capture of Corporal Gilad Shalit: 121.
* Number of Israeli air strikes on Lebanon yesterday: 100.
* Hezbollah rockets fired yesterday: 80.
* The Israel Defence Force claimed yesterday to have hit 10 Hezbollah buildings.
* That adds up to an estimated $1 billion in damage to infrastructure.
* Number of Lebanese bridges destroyed: 105
* Number of Israeli bridges destroyed: 0.
* Number of Lebanese ports bombed: 3.
* Estimate of the number of Lebanese people displaced in the fighting: 750,000.
* Lebanon has 2,000 UN troops who have been in the south since 1978.
* The value of arms exported to Israel from the UK in the past 18 months: £25m.
* United States “aid” to Israel: $5 billion a year?
* The number of Britons evacuated from Lebanon by yesterday evening: 2,526.
* Israel’s military spending: $9.45billion (in 1995); Lebanon: $540

Stats courtesy of playahata.com via Rob Ellington

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Italian World Cup Training Camp

Italian World Cup Training Camp


Italy lead this year's World Cup with 32 dives, Portugal came in 2nd with 24. -July 9, 2006 Washington Post article citing the British company, Information Builders.

I've read a few editorials criticizing Zidane for "ending his career in shame." True, you want your captain to be able to keep a cool head under all circumstances. However, as far as I'm concerned, it is far more shameful to spend so much time trying to fake out the referee (instead of relying on one's skills) than it is to headbutt one of the pansies who do such things - especially if the drama queen just insulted your sister after pulling your shirt to keep you from making a play!

Italy would not have been in the final if not for Grosso's dive in the penalty box against Australia in the last minute of the game.

We all have missteps and can be pushed to the brink where we act on instinct rather than logic. Keep in mind that it is superior talent combined with superior instinct which elevates professional athletes above those of us who are weekend warriors. Judge a man by the majority of his deeds rather than mistakes made in the heat of battle. Fortunately the majority of journalists attending the 2006 World Cup did just that, and awarded Zidane the Golden Ball as The Most Valuable Player of the Tournament.

I still LOVE most things Italian: hospitality, people, food, art, architecture, sculpture, etc., but right now I detest calcio Italiano.

PS - FYI, the US was booked for only 5 dives.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Updates Coming Soon (7.17.06)

Soon I'll be writing about Korean Nationalism, men in pink, the Mud Festival, my soccer team's awards night, and why I love everything about Italy EXCEPT their current national soccer team, in the mean time, here are a few more photos.


"Azikiwe" using Hangul characters + Fair Play & Defender MVP Awards Posted by Picasa


Hee Rang @ Korean BBQ when Korea was still in the World Cup Posted by Picasa


SLI Crew (my coworkers), the night Korea was knocked out of the World Cup - Rick, Dave, Mike & OC (Mike) Posted by Picasa


Lokomotiv Goyang Awardees - Kieran, Rachid, "Ash", Jason, Mounir & Mike Posted by Picasa

Saturday, June 17, 2006

I'm Alive and Well! Thanks for asking.


300,000 fans cheering in front of City Hall (Seoul) during the Korea vs. Togo World Cup game Posted by Picasa

World Cup Fever is ridiculous in Korea! They’ve erected 25 foot statues of their star players near City Hall! And look at the size of that crowd! They love their Korea Fighting.

As a soccer player and fan myself, I’m glad to be in a country that appreciates the sport so much. I wonder if there are any 25 foot statues of Beasley or Donovan anywhere in the US right now… Of course Korea did advance further than we did in the last World Cup, and they are doing better than we are so far this time around, but that’s beside the point, darnit! :)

Watching the US, Ghana and Japan (I pulled Japan in a lottery) lose Monday night saddened me, but I’m optimistic that the US will pull off a victory tonight. Even sporting some red, white & blue for the occasion (Thanks for the Charleston Thanksgiving Shoot Out t-shirt, Pop.).

Thanks for expressing concern over the fact that I’ve neglected this blog and my emails for so long, but rest assured that I’m alright. In fact, as the sign below indicates, I’m loving life right now.


something like: een-sang-uhn ah-ruhm-dah-wah-yo! Posted by Picasa

Yup, that’s what I’ve been up to lately. Devoting a lot of time and energy to trying to get a better handle on Korean. I put the characters below on the wall across from my bed in March, and started taking classes in April. I’m far from fluent, but it feels good to be able to read, write and speak a little.


Wall Hangings: Hangul Alphabet & Numbers Posted by Picasa

If you can blow up the photo, you should have no trouble sounding out the “Life is Beautiful” sign above. =)

There is SO much more to talk about, but it is World Cup time, so I won’t be writing much more until July. However, I wanted to include a photo of one of my favorite meals. Traditional Korean restaurants always serve a bunch of healthy sides with their dishes. It’s one of the things I like about Korea. Don’t ask me what the sides are. Most of them are vegetables in a spicy red sauce, but since some of them are vegetables I’ve never seen anywhere else, I can’t tell you much more than that.


Healthy Value Meal - sahm chi kui & panchan for $5! Posted by Picasa

I sometimes pass on one of the side dishes (tiny dried fish, for example), but I usually end up devouring everything else. It's good stuff. I hit this restaurant at least once a week.

Alright, gotta run. The Czech Republic vs. Ghana game is starting (Go Black Stars!). I’ll leave you with a photo of my soccer team.


Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club Posted by Picasa

Thailand (4.29.06 - 5.6.06)


After a month in Korea I told myself it would be best not to travel outside of the country until I could do so without worrying about getting back to work on time. Would it really be worth it to visit another country for just a week?

YES!

I love Thailand! The food is incredibly delicious and healthy! The people are overwhelmingly friendly and helpful! The diving was amazing! And everything was so inexpensive! Even the climate was more to this southern man’s liking than the fickle weather of Korea!

We had a week long vacation. The lure of great food and diving, plus the good fortune of finding an excellent deal on a flight at the last minute made Thailand impossible to resist. And I’m glad I didn’t. I met up with my friend, Nadine to dive Koh Tao for a few days.


Nadine, Grand Palace Grounds, Bangkok, Thailand Posted by Picasa

One of Nadine’s good friends is half Thai, so we were blessed to have his family take care of us in Bangkok. And boy, did they take care of us! Nok and her family spoiled us rotten. I’m sure I wouldn’t have enjoyed Thailand half as much if it weren’t for their hospitality. Nok and her sister picked us up from the airport at some ungodly hour (well after midnight) and took us to dinner on our way to an apartment they let us use while we were in Bangkok. The entire family took us out to restaurants with amazing food, and helped us experience Bangkok in a much less touristy way.


Nok & Family, Bangkok, Thailand Posted by Picasa


I love Thai food! Posted by Picasa

Of course, we did do the touristy things too.


Reclining Buddha, Bangkok, Thailand Posted by Picasa

No dive shots this time, but here’s a view from the bungalow we stayed in on Koh Tao.


view from Freedom Beach bungalow, Koh Tao, Thailand Posted by Picasa

Reggae Night at Club Aura, Seoul (3.18.06)


Reggae Band #2 - If you closed your eyes, you could be listening to Johnny Holt in a Jamaican dancehall! Posted by Picasa

Back in February, my main man, Corey called to tell me he heard about a reggae night happening somewhere in Seoul. Up until that point, many people heard me groaning about being dumbfounded that after 3 months I still hadn’t found a reggae venue in Korea. I didn’t even really need live music. I just knew there had to be SOME PLACE in Seoul where people danced to reggae, and I was frustrated that I hadn’t found it yet!

I must admit that I didn’t have high hopes, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we found. Funkafric Booster was playing when we got there. We couldn’t see the band as we descended the stairs into the club, but I remember thinking to myself, That drummer is playing a real dancehall beat!


Funkafric Booster - The drummer is a BEAST! (translation: she's awesome!) Posted by Picasa

Both bands blew me away! As did my man, Francois, the dreadlocked Frenchman spinning everything from dub, Jacob Miller and Dennis Brown to Morgan Heritage, Capleton and I-Wayne.


Ryong & Francois, Club Aura, Seoul Posted by Picasa

Unfortunately, I still haven’t found a place that consistently plays reggae every weekend, but any time Francois hips me to a reggae night somewhere, I am there. These are photos from the March 18th Irie Reggae Vibes night at Club Aura in Seoul. Attendance was light, but the music and vibes were indeed Irie.


Myung Mee & Ana Posted by Picasa


Julia, Ana & Angela - we had the dance floor to ourselves between sets Posted by Picasa


Julia, Corey & Eva - Corey's my main man here Posted by Picasa


Rose, Julia & Ana, some of my favorite people Posted by Picasa

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Korea Updates Coming Soon! (10.28.05 - Present)

January and February have been more challenging than expected, as a result I’ve neglected the site for a while, but I WILL be updating the blog soon. In the mean time, here are a few photos.

Soon,
Zik


N Seoul Tower, Seoul, Korea Posted by Picasa


Seoul, Korea - View from Seoul Tower Posted by Picasa


Sungnyemun Arch, Seoul, Korea Posted by Picasa


Changing of the Guard, Gyeongbokgung Palace - Seoul, Korea Posted by Picasa


National Folk Museum, Seoul, Korea Posted by Picasa


Performers, National Folk Museum, Seoul, Korea Posted by Picasa


Yong Pyong Resort, Korea Posted by Picasa


Fun Kids, SLI, Ilsan, Korea Posted by Picasa


Seoul Language Institute, Ilsan, Korea Posted by Picasa

First Impressions of Korea (10.28.05 - 11.11.05)

Annyeong Haseyo From Korea!

Jetlag is a BEAST! And so are the Hangul and the Korean language!

I’ve been here for about 2 weeks now, and I’m just starting to overcome the worst case of jetlag ever. There’s a 14 hour difference between this time zone and the one I left a couple of weeks ago. I slept a little on the 15 hour flight from Atlanta to Seoul (at least it was direct), but cramped seats and crying babies made it impossible to get more than an hour at a time. The result was that my internal clock was COMPLETELY discombobulated! I was nodding off in E-VER-Y ONE of the classes I was supposed to be observing the first few days! Then I would find myself staring at the ceiling and trying not to get out the bed at 3AM!

I’m embarrassed to admit that McDonalds was the first restaurant I looked for here in Korea.  Trust me, I’m more horrified than you are, but I have an excuse. For the first time in my adult life, linguistically speaking, my communication skills resemble those of a deaf-mute 3-year-old. No, I didn’t SPEAK Italian the first time I went to Italy. Nor did I speak Spanish the first time I went to Central America. But I had at least studied Italian before going to Italy, so I had a foundation on which to build. And Spanish is similar enough to Italian that I could understand and make myself understood with a little effort in Nicaragua. But Korea is a whole new ball game! We’re dealing with a completely foreign “alphabet” here! You can’t intuit meaning from characters that look nothing like anything you’ve ever seen! They’ve Romanized the language so that words can be written in the alphabet familiar to us, but I was hard pressed to find Romanized words on signs or menus around the Daewah subway stop in Ilsan on Friday morning.

I mean, honestly, can YOU find the restaurant in this building?!


Commercial Building, Ilsan, Korea Posted by Picasa

Due to unforeseen circumstances, the studio apartment that the school is renting for me had only been vacated the day of my arrival. The Director didn’t want me to spend my first night there because it hadn’t been cleaned yet. So they put me up in a hotel, and I told them I’d find breakfast on my own. A little more challenging than I had thought it would be.

Let me start out by saying I knew I was going to love Korean food as soon as I was served Bibimbap (sticky rice, veggies and meat in a spicy sauce) on the flight over. So I’m psyched about exploring the cuisine. But I woke up at 3AM craving pancakes and not being able to go back to sleep. I wasn’t sure what would be open for breakfast at 6AM in that part of town, but I was willing to wager that if anything was open, it would be McDonalds. And the fact that all I’d have to do was point to a picture, or hold up fingers to indicate which meal I wanted was comforting to the soul.

Lucky for me there wasn’t a McDonalds to be found (I found out later that they don’t serve breakfast here anyway). For if there were, I might have missed out sheer joy of experiencing the unknown, which in this case turned out to be the typical Korean breakfast of soup, kimchi and rice for breakfast. I started out being ignored in a few places in which I could have pointed to photos with prices next to them. I ended taking a roll of the dice in a more crowded place in which a smiling waitress eagerly invited me in. I’m sure she said something to the effect of, “What would you like to eat?” I smiled holding up a finger intended to mean, “Please give me a minute to consult my phrase book.” By time I pulled my head out of the book there was a tray in front of me. Apparently I ordered the first item on the menu. They don’t use forks or knives here, so I had a good time cutting my kimchi with scissors and learning how to manipulate my chopsticks and spoon like the friendly Koreans sitting at the table next to me.

I don’t like to play into stereotypes, but I have to say the crowd of people who flew over with me had to be the most punctual group of people ever! Lately most of my flights have been to/from Latin America. Dealing with Taca you have check-ins happening up to the last possible moment, delayed flights, people sprinting down the corridor to get in before they close the cabin door. Not on this flight. The flight was scheduled to leave at 1PM. Not only was everyone checked in by 11:30AM, I damn near had an anxiety attack thinking my watch was wrong because I was the ONLY one on the train and corridor leading up to the gate. I was the last one to arrive at the gate at Noon. I don’t think I have ever experienced such a phenomenon.

Speaking of airports, the architecture of the Incheon airport is pretty cool. Reminded me of something out of a sci-fi movie.

I’m feeling good about my decision. I’ve been hired as a teacher, but teaching English is only a pretext. It is simply a means to several ends. Foremost of which is my desire to reconnect with my creative nature and focus on personal development. Translation: I want to write a book, start lifting weights again, explore Asia, launch a website, and get out of debt. I’ll be working a minimal, stress-free work week that is 25 hours long (basically 4:30PM – 9:30PM), and the cost of living is so low that I’ll be sending $500-$1000 to my US bank account each month.

After reading a few horror stories on-line before coming, I was a little worried that I could have been getting scammed and that the above would not be true. But my recruiter, Don Park is a good guy (www.asia-teachers.org), and I’m happy to say that my experience thus far and my co-workers testimonies have eliminated my fears. While my rent-free housing is a studio apartment, I do live alone (as opposed to shared accommodations), and furnishings include a computer and a washing machine in addition to a stocked kitchenette, bed, couches, tables, chairs, closet and storage space, etc. My co-workers took me out for a night on the town in Seoul. During an enjoyable night of dinner, drinks, hookah pipes and dancing they confirmed that they’re saving money AND living it up.

Ilsan is a young satellite city of Seoul (50 minute subway ride away). It’s only been around for 10 years so it’s not as crowded or polluted as Seoul, but it is pretty well developed with all the amenities you’d want in a city. It’s like Baltimore in relation to Washington, DC. You can click on the following website to see photos that should hold you over until I break out my camera: www.patrickryanonline.com. I don’t know Patrick or Heather, but they taught in Ilsan recently, and have some pretty good photos of the city. My current apartment is not as nice as theirs was, but I’ll be moving to a nicer place when the lease is up next month. I’m currently a 15 minute walk away from school. The location of the new apartment will cut the commuting time in half.

There are Ski Mountains within a 2 hour drive, so I’ll definitely be hitting the slopes as soon as the snow starts falling. But I’ll probably end up heading out to the spot that’s 4 hours away. Yongpyeong Ski Resort is considered one of the best in Asia. According to Lonely Planet, “It just missed out on hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics to Vancouver by 56 votes to 53.” So if you’re up for a snowboarding holiday let me know. I’ll probably be there November 26th through 30th, and December 29th through January 2nd. I’m postponing trips to Thailand and the like until February or so.

So the language barrier is a challenge, but I like challenges. The survival skills I’ve been teaching my students over the past couple of years came in handy as I took a solo trip into Seoul and bargained for the speaker system I bought for my Ipod at one of the biggest electronics markets in Asia.

Gotta get ready to go find lunch. I hope you are happy, healthy, and enjoying life.

Peace&Blessings,
Zik

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

Nicaragua & Atlanta, GA (7/28/05 – 10/26/05)

I’ve had a blast since leaving DC in January of ‘04. I’ve spent time in 12 countries and several US states over the past 20 months: Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Italy, Brooklyn, DC, San Francisco, San Diego, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Honduras, Charleston, Ski Country Colorado, Fiji, New Zealand, Australia, Vermont, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Miami, Durham, Asheville, Greenville and Atlanta. I've truly enjoyed the experiences, but I am tired of living out of my backpack. Korea will be a welcomed repose.

I could spend time on tales of woe involving the pain and frustration of trying to take care of an abscessed tooth while uninsured and unemployed. But why spend time on lost luggage, 15 hour days on chicken buses, being sick, incompetent airline reps, etc. when there are so many good things to recount?! I’m glad I finally have time to write! So let me fill you in on all the blessings of the past few months.

Even more rewarding than Belize (see Belize entry below) was my trip back to Nicaragua. It had been 5 years since I finished my Peace Corps stint and left Nicaragua. I had been wanting to get back in the past few years to visit the host families who took care of me, and check on the kids I taught and coached while living in Bluefields. Particularly frustrating was the fact that I had been so close to Nicaragua on several occasions over the past 18 months, but unable to visit the country due to the tight schedules of the programs I was leading.

I flew into Guatemala City, Guatemala on July 28th and was able to see friends in Guate, and work in the Sun Jam and some scuba diving from the island of Utila in Honduras on my way down to Nicaragua.


La Familia Vargas, Dolores, Nicaragua Posted by Picasa


Ms. Gay & Family, Bluefields, Nicaragua Posted by Picasa


The Beyers Family, Bluefields, Nicaragua Posted by Picasa

My time in Nicaragua was brief, but rewarding. I saw 9 of the 13 people who were my host family when I was a Peace Corps Trainee in Dolores in 1998. I also got to hang out with the host families that took care of me when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Bluefields. Just as rewarding was running into so many of my former players and students and finding out how well they’re doing. Sure there were a few sad stories, but I was beaming to hear 3 of them tell me they’re now teachers, in part because they want to encourage kids to reach their potential as I encouraged them to reach theirs. Damn near brought tears to my eyes, I tell you! I was also able to track down Chiki, one of the kids who played organized soccer for the first time on the team I had put together 6 years ago. He’s still playing, and is now one of the stars of the league!


Chiki (17) after his soccer match, Bluefields, Nicaragua Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Belize, Central America (6/26/05 - 7/25/05)

There’s something so comical about trying to hold the latrine door close with one hand, aiming your flow with the other, all the while dancing so as not to be bitten by the countless mosquitoes buzzing around that you simply have to laugh at yourself. Such is life at Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary here in Belize. But I’m not complaining. Latrine’s and cold showers are a small price to pay to enjoy the wonders of this country.

Yep, I’m leading a group of high school students with EIL again (www.usexperiemnt.org - I’ve been to Italy with them a few times). Over the past 3 weeks or so we’ve had wild howler monkeys eat mangoes out of our hands, visited the Mayan ruins of Xunantunich and Lamanai, canoed down the Sibun River, and built a pre-school playground from scratch while living with host families at Crooked Tree Village. We attended the wedding of one kid’s host sister on Saturday and had our farewell dinner party a couple of days ago. Now we’re headed to Tobacco Caye for a few days of snorkeling and relaxing.


Hungry Howler Monkey, Baboon Sanctuary, Belize Posted by Picasa


Xunantunich Mayan Ruins, Belize Posted by Picasa

Lamanai Mayan Ruins, Belize Posted by Picasa


EIL Group atop Lamanai Mayan Ruins, Belize Posted by Picasa

By the way, check out my entries on Tiwanaku, Bolivia and Tikal, Guatemala to get my take on pyramids in Central and South America.

Whenever I think of my host family I will remember the Belizean proverb “Empty sack cyaan stan up!” That’s what my 55-year-old host mom, Ms. Vange says whenever she thinks I haven’t put enough food on my plate. Never mind that the plate is overflowing and that there is no more space to add anything. She and her 80-year-old blind sister, Mrs. Day are simply expressing their love through their culinary offerings and genuine concern for my well being. They are sweet ladies. I’ve since learned that the proper response is “Too full sack cyaan bend!”


Mrs. Day and Ms. Vange, Crooked Tree, Belize Posted by Picasa

I’ve also learned that if a horse is wet with sweat during the day it will usually storm that night, and that if the sun is red at sunrise it will be a scorching day. Folk wisdom is more accurate than you might think.

My host fam was just what the doctor ordered. There was not a working television in the house, so all was quiet and peaceful. And they’re vegetarians, so I ate healthily. Fresh mangoes, pineapples, marmy apples, and homemade hot sauce usually accompanied the ackee, boil-up, cashew casserole, and squash dishes.

After working with my students to erect the playground all day (picnic tables, swings and a tire play area done with no blueprints or experienced supervision – but done successfully!), I would play soccer with a friend’s kids until nightfall. Then I’d head home for dinner and conversation before reading myself to sleep (Ben Carson’s, Gifted Hands – recommended). They have indoor plumbing and they’re house is totally screened in, so I liked the fact that I could sleep without a mosquito net and I didn’t have to contend with bugs (including tarantulas) in a latrine.


Completed Service Project, Crooked Tree, Belize Posted by Picasa

This will be my last experiential learning trip of the year. I should say this will be my last time LEADING a trip for a group of youth for the year. I’ve been living out of my backpack for a year and a half now, and I think I am ready to have a couch to call my own. At least for a little while. So while I expect to do another experiential learning trip to Brazil or Asia, it will most likely be a solo trip that will last for a year or 2.

I’ll be spending the months after this trip (late August and beyond) temping and figuring out where in the world I’ll be living in 2006 and 2007. I’d like to be in Brazil writing a book, but if I can’t figure out how to finance that project, Asia will be my default option. I know I can make pretty decent money teaching English there. Since the work wouldn’t be too taxing, I could also start on the book in my spare time. And it could serve as a nice base to visit several countries in Southeast Asia.

I’m thinking I should be in Asia by April or so. I’ll keep you posted on the goings on, and whether I’ll be anywhere near your neck of the woods before then. And you can let me know if you know of any short term jobs, international jobs, fellowships or grants that might be of interest to me.

I hope you are happy, healthy and enjoying life.

Peace&Blessings,
Zik

POST TRIP ADDENDUM:

Missing from the original update was a blurb on Tobacco Caye. It’s the 5-acre island from which we snorkeled during the last 4 days of the trip. I was also able to get in a dive. We saw several spotted eagle rays, a sea turtle, and some of the most brilliantly colored (iridescent-fluorescent purples and yellows) vase sponges and tube sponges I’ve ever seen.


Tobacco Caye, Belize Posted by Picasa

I have to say that one of the reasons this was such a great trip was the group of students I lead. After my trip to Fiji, New Zealand and Australia I had doubts as to whether I had lost my touch. Despite our promising start in Fiji, that group of 4 young misfits turned out to be THE most dysfunctional group of kids I have EVER worked with; too self-absorbed to contribute to community building. At the end of the program they had me wondering if there was something wrong with me. I was worried that I might no longer be cut out for youth development work.

By contrast, the Belize group of teenagers restored my faith in myself, and my faith in the power of respectful, compassionate groups who care for one another and those around them. They bonded right from the start, had a great time working and playing hard, and gave me absolutely no problems. They were excellent role models and goodwill ambassadors. And since I see traveling groups as microcosms of the world at large, they gave me great hope for a brighter future.

From Sydney to Cairns, Australia (4/10/05 – 5/13/05)

The Australia update will include:
1. Surfing Byron Bay
2. Yoga and meditation at The Chenrezig Buddhist Retreat Center
3. Petting kangaroos and koala bears at the Crocodile Hunter’s zoo
4. Conservation work around Uluru in the Australian outback
5. Scuba diving the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns


Sydney Harbor, Australia Posted by Picasa


Sydney Opera House Detail, Australia Posted by Picasa


Chenrezig Buddhist Retreat Center, Australia Posted by Picasa


The Crocodile Hunter's Zoo, Australia Posted by Picasa


Uluru, The Outback, Australia Posted by Picasa


Sunset, Uluru, The Outback, Australia Posted by Picasa


Hawksbill Sea Turtle, Great Barrier Reef, Australia Posted by Picasa


"Wally" the Napoleon Wrasse, Great Barrier Reef, Australia Posted by Picasa