I'm Staying in Korea for 1 More Year

Yes, I know I’ve done a poor job of keeping my blog updated, but we just finished another “busy season” at the end of August. Busy season is the time during which I am away from my apartment from 9am until 8pm, Monday through Friday.

I teach at a hagwon which is not actually a school, but an English academy that kids attend AFTER school. I thought Korean parents were crazy for making their kids attend academies for 3-6 hours after spending 8hours in school during the school year. What’s worse is that during the kids “summer vacation” they are actually enrolled in ADDITIONAL hagwons! ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?

I was at the school 11 hours a day during the month of August because parents enrolled their kids for extra classes for the month. The kids are actually happy when summer vacation is over because they have fewer academies to attend, and LESS HOMEWORK DURING THE SCHOOL YEAR THAN DURING SUMMER VACATION! WHAT?!?!?


One of the Older Classes - Seoul Language Institute, Ilsan 


A (little) Less Reserved Class - SLI, Ilsan 

All said and done, these kids get 2.5 months of vacation a year. It’s sad that they spend 2 months of it in academies (English, math, social studies, Korean, science, etc.). Instead of enjoying what should be a break from school, Korean kids spend their vacations worrying about the mountain of “vacation homework” they have to complete before school starts again.


One of the Happy Classes, SLI, Ilsan 

Anyway, instead of the 5 hour days I’m accustomed to, I was at the academy from 9am until 8pm, 5 days a week. There were breaks, so I only taught 8 or 9 hours a day, but the early mornings meant that by time I had finished dinner with friends or coworkers, I was exhausted, and could do nothing but sleep when I got home. As far as I’m concerned, collecting overtime pay is the only benefit to busy season.

And OF COURSE I was offline during the world cup! Because of the time difference, the games were broadcasted live in Korea in the middle of the night (e.g. 10pm, midnight, 2am, 4am, etc). So when I didn't have to get up for Korean classes, I usually ended up sleeping the days away until I had to go to work.

Aside from studying Korean, I did NO work (i.e. writing) in June or July. My expat team is full of foreigners from England, Switzerland, the US, Morocco, etc. I also play with an Argentinean and Koreans, so there was a reason to watch nearly every game. I was up all night most nights. It was a good time despite the fact that Korea, the US, and most of the African teams never made it out of the first round, AND despite the fact that the drama queens from Italy won (see the video and commentary below for more info).

I’ve spent most of my computer time digging myself out from under the 300+ emails that accumulated during my hiatus, and planning my trip to Southeast Asia

And for current news… (drum roll please)

THE DECISION IS IN: AZIKIWE WILL EXTEND HIS STAY IN KOREA FOR ANOTHER YEAR!

Just before the World Cup began, I evaluated my progress towards my artistic and financial goals. In doing so I realized that my progress was unsatisfactory, and that the only way I could reach my goals would be through severe discipline (read isolation and NO socializing). Now that was the original plan. I was to come here and be a hermit. I wasn't thinking about coming here and trying to make friends or socialize much. I intended to save all of my money, and spend all of my time writing the book whenever I wasn't at work.

In March, I was complaining to yet another friend about how closed off this society is when I realized that part of the problem could be that my Korean communication skills were still nonexistent. Furthermore, I realized I could NOT live here for a year and leave without being able to speak the language. So I enrolled in Korean language classes. The classes were great for establishing a foundation, but after a few months I realized that the only way I could maximize progress was to spend more time with Koreans. Of course the more time I spend studying Korean and socializing with Koreans, the less time I spend on the computer. Add to the mix that I also don't want to kick my expat friends to the curb, and all of a sudden, my social calendar is always packed with engagements. There's no time for book writing, nor was I saving any money. But I'm not worried about it! At least my debt is under control and dwindling.

I finally just gave into it all! After taking stock of my progress toward saving money and finishing the book, I decided I need more time. My contract ended on December 20th. On December 21st I began a 6-week vacation in SE Asia. I’ll be back in Korea on December 3rd to teach for 1 more year.

Korea has grown on me… and tacking on another year means I’ll have a much more focused 2nd year. I'm reminded that my Peace Corps recruiter told me that 2 years were necessary because it takes a year to get acclimated, and that it's during the second year that the most progress is made. I found this to be true of my Peace Corps experience, and I expect it to be true of my personal goals in Korea as well.

I was hoping to spend 2-3 months traveling, but my hagwon’s giving me a raise, and since it is one of the best deals I know of (other teachers have to be at work 8 hours a day, work Saturdays, and have shabby apartments), and keeping my apartment means I don’t have to worry about moving and storing my stuff, I decided to re-sign with them rather than look for a new gig. So… 6 weeks will have to do.

I’ll snowboard through the weekends of December and January, but I intend to become a hermit after January’s busy season. Book writing will be THE primary goal. Traveling has always been good to get my creative juices flowing, so I expect to come back to Korea with a full head of steam ready to finish the book.


My Apartment Building, Ilsan 

South Korean Nationalism

Anthony, Wade & Crew: USA vs. Korea - 8.15.06 

My soccer teammate and good friend, Mike Clayton hipped me to the Korea vs. US basketball game on August 15th. I enjoyed watching LeBron James, Dwayne Wade, Carmelo Anthony and the rest of the squad do their thing, but I was really impressed (and slightly amused) by Korean nationalism.

The US had a significant lead by the second quarter. The final score was 116 to 63. At no point after the second quarter was Korea within 27 points of the US, yet Korean pride is so strong that the score didn’t really matter. Every time a Korean scored, the arena erupted with cheers as if a Korean player had just slam dunked the gaming winning point!

It finally made sense why I was unable to watch a few World Cup games at my favorite venues.

If you scroll down, you’ll see a photo of the massive crowd gathered at Seoul’s City Hall to watch Korea’s first 2006 game against Togo. I thought Koreans were crazy for the World Cup. Turns out they’re just crazy for Korea in the World Cup.

An hour before kick off for the Korea vs. Togo game I was turned away from restaurants and a bar I used visit once a week. They told me I should have made a reservation. Every place in Ilsan was PACKED with Koreans in their national jersey cheering, “Daehanminguk!”

The crowds grew with every game Korea played. Trying to get to City Hall for the Korea vs. France game meant squeezing through a crowd that had gathered hours before the match, and was already shoulder to shoulder 4 blocks away from City Hall.

Everything changed as soon as Korea was kicked out of the Cup.

The same places that told me I needed a reservation to watch the Korea games were like, “What, there’s a game tonight? Really? Who? What time? Oh no, you can watch the first half, but we’ll be closing at 2.” when I went back to watch matches after Korea was no longer in the tournament. It was frustrating, but funny at the same time.

All said and done, at least it’s not the kind of nationalism that leads to brutality against foreigners…

Chuseok and Family (10.5.06)

FAMILY - Vahid, Camille, Adalia, Iyabo, Magdala & Stephanie 

According to Monk Sun Jae, a professor at Dongguk University here in Korea, "The origin of Chuseok is traced back to the Shilla Kingdom. On the occasion of the full moon of August in the lunar calendar, people held a festival to celebrate that year's harvest. Singing and dancing the night away, people enjoyed the foods prepared by each other. Chuseok is a warmhearted tradition of our ancestors."

Present-day Koreans celebrate Chuseok much in the same way as Thanksgiving, Christmas and Kwanzaa are celebrated in the US. There isn’t the emphasis on turkeys, commercialism, or the Nguzo Saba, but 90% of the country heads home to feast and be with family.

Like Koreans during this time of year, I found myself giving thanks for family and friends yesterday too. I’m grateful for the many connections I’ve made with people here in Korea, but yesterday I found myself counting blessings because I was with family.

Stephanie is the sister of my dear friend Cynthia’s friend, Crystal. I met Cynthia when I was in Peace Corps in Nicaragua and she and her boyfriend were traveling through Central America back in ’99. I’ve never met Crystal, and even though I haven’t seen Cynthia since I moved away from DC in ’03, we’re always in touch.

Iyabo is the daughter of friends of Mama Shukuru, a friend of my parents’ from their days at The East in Brooklyn in the early 70’s. I met Mama Shukuru once when I was in San Francisco for a wedding in 2002, but I’ve never met Iyabo’s family.

I have very few friends on My Space, but what I love about my real network of friends and family is how we are always trying to put people in touch with one another. Cynthia sent me an email several months ago saying Stephanie was in Korea, and that I should get in touch with her. I received an email from Stephanie shortly after we met, saying that she met Iyabo (whom I hadn’t met yet), through her friend, Camille. I met Adalia and Vahid when we all got together at Everest (excellent Nepalese food!) to celebrate Iyabo’s birthday shortly thereafter. Adalia suggested we get together for a Soul Food night during Chuseok. I invited Magdala to join us shortly after meeting her at a restaurant I was in for another friend’s birthday party.

Over a delicious karamu (feast) of collard greens, fruit salad and a noodle dish prepared by Camille; garlic mashed potatoes, rice and lemonade prepared by Adalia; an eggplant dish from Iyabo’s native Guyana; and fried chicken prepared by Ellis, we had our own Chuseok celebration. I wish I had an oven and pie shells so I could have contributed sweet potato pie to the meal, but in the midst of such abundant blessings I could not focus on any negativity. I found myself personally giving thanks for the distant family who made it possible for this family to assemble here in Korea.

It was such a beautiful night we found ourselves planning to make it a monthly event. Thank You, Kahmsahmnida, Asante Sana, Gracias, Grazie, and Merci Beaucoup to all of my family, both here and abroad. I love you.

Peace&Blessings,
Azikiwe

Anthony Hamilton Live in Korea! (9.27.06)

Anthony Hamilton - Yongsan Military Base, Korea 

Still lovin life and feeling blessed, y'all! I got to see Anthony Hamilton live right here in Korea! And it was an excellent show!

Anthony Hamilton has been one of my favorite artists since the first time I heard Comin' From Where I'm From. Like India Arie and Kindred The Family Soul, I will buy ANYTHING they produce as soon as it goes on sell because I know it will be real and positive.

Here's what I love about the brother: He had the women in the audience swooning as he crooned the lyrics to Float. High school age girls were still screaming his name as he concluded the song. While other performers might have invited the girls on stage for a booty shaking contest, this is the point at which he said, "See, they're listening. We need to talk to them when they're listening. Young ladies, make sure you hold on to your special things. Don't let these lil' fast boys talk you into giving your special things away. Remember, you're special..."

The brother writes and sings songs from the heart, and he is a responsible artist who recognizes and uses the power of music to educate, encourage and uplift. His music is edutainment, music with soul and consciousness.

Most of his band has been with him from the beginning, and his wife, one of the back-up singers was introduced to him by another back-up singer who’s been with him from the beginning. That’s loyalty and family… and it shines through in their music!

I attended the last of 3 free shows he did for US military personnel stationed in Korea. I gotta thank my friend, Jeryl, as well as her friends, Sherry and Terry for getting me on base to experience the show. I also have to thank my coworker and friend, Dave for covering one of my classes so I could make the midweek show. Finally, I gotta thank the man himself, Anthony Hamilton for truly Keeping It Real! Brother got off stage to dance with the sisters during Sista Big Bones, y'all! AND he stayed for well over an hour after the show to autograph posters for everyone who wanted one!

Roots Vibe Party - Club DGBD, Seoul (9.9.06)

Windy City at their studio with Gold Tea & DJ Seafran 

It was an excellent night!

Up until this night, I had been frustrated with clubs starting concerts at 8pm and ending the show before they had a crowd to appreciate the music. I worked hard to get the word out for this concert because I didn't want the organizers to get the impression that Korea's still not ready for reggae. I got a nice crowd of foreigners to come out, but of course most of them showed up around 10:30 (still early by western standards). By Korean standards they had missed most of the show. Usually the late comers would be SOL (out of luck). But my man, Ban-Jang, the leader of Windy City, would have none of it that night!

The show should have ended shortly after 11pm with a collaboration piece featuring the last three acts. But Ban-Jang saw the crowd still feeling the vibes and asked, "Do you want some more?!"

The amped crowd yelled back, "YEAH!!!" And with that Windy City played on for another hour and a half to the crowd's amazement and delight!

All of the performances were solid, but I am most grateful for Windy City, Gold Tea, Shadow and DJ Sea Fran for keeping the party going!

One of Windy City's reggae tunes is finally in a video format that I could upload. Loosely translated, tha title is "This Crazy World". Amoung other things, they speak against the invasion of Iraq. Cool People + Positive Vibes = Beautifully Conscious Music. I love the cats! Check 'em out: